Tech Articles

The BMW Digest FAQ Section 13: 2002

Revised 3 November 1996

This FAQ section is derived from selected 2002-related posts to the BMW Digest through October 1996. Posts are the opinions of their authors and have been edited for brevity and clarity. There is no express or implied warranty of accuracy or usefulness. The posts presented here are not affiliated with the 2002 Digest hosted by Chris Kent. Please send comments and corrections to [email protected]

Curtis A. Ingraham
Section 13 Editor
7 April 1999

  • 13.1 Overview

  • 13.2 Body

  • 13.3 Engine

  • 13.4 Suspension & Steering

  • 13.5 Brakes

  • 13.6 HVAC

  • 13.7 Electrical

  • 13.8 Misc

  • 13.9 Performance

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    13.1: Overview

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    13.1.1: 2002 Model Overview

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    By Rick Kjeldsen ([email protected]) and [email protected][Excerpt from FAQ Chapter 1. Ed.]

    Modern BMWs started with the 1500, a boxy practical sedan with a 1.5liter 4 cylinder. The engine was soon enlarged and the bodyslightly redesigned to make the 2002. This was a small 4-seaterwith good handling and a powerful motor. It is the car which reallystarted BMW on the path it is today.

    Today BMW has three main lines of cars: 3, 5 and 7. However, notethat before standardizing on the current 3,5,6,7,8-seriesdesignations in the mid-1970’s, BMW primarily used enginedisplacement to name their cars. The most notable example is the2002.

    BMW has used a multitude of numbers and letters over the years, butthey have not always been consistent in their application except inthe use of the model range as the first number. Thus, there aremany exceptions to the designations discussed where the model namemay not equate exactly to the characteristics of the car. Inaddition, the letter ‘A’ (automatic) or ‘C’ (convertible) suffix maybe appended to the model name; these, however, do not appear asbadges except on some older automatic models. The following listhas partial explanations of some of the letters used. [Only a fewof these apply to the ’02 series. Ed.]

    A = automatic
    C = convertible
    CS = coupe sport
    i = injection; international
    e = ETA (high mpg, high torque, low RPM) engine
    L = long-wheelbase; luxury
    M = Motorsport
    s = sport; also used to denote coupe body in NA markets
    t = touring; touring could equate to hatchback, wagon, or
    sport versions of early models
    td = turbodiesel
    tds = intercooled turbodiesel
    X = four-wheel drive
    Z = models developed by BMW Technik; new roadster designation

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    1.1.2: Body/Chassis Codes

    By [email protected][Excerpt from FAQ Chapter 1. Ed.]

    Like many car manufacturers, BMW assigns code names to theirmodels/chassis while they are in development (i.e., E36/2). The’E’ translates from a German word for ‘development’. Each’E-number’ refers to a model series (3,5,6,7,8) with variations suchas station wagons, hatchbacks, or convertibles. Models createdbefore the E-system have Type numbers. The ’02 series are asfollows:

     Type/ Number/ Year Year Variant (Euro) (U.S.) Model Body Style ——- ——- ——- ———————- —————– 114 1967-74 1502, 1602, 1802, 2002 2d sedan 115 1962-64 1500 4d sedan 116 1966 1600 4d sedan 118 1963-? 1800, 1800Ti, 1800TiSA 4d sedan 120 1966-? 2000, 2000Ti, 4d sedan 2000TiLUX, 2000Tii 121 1965-69 2000C, 2000CS 2d coupe E6 1600, 1800, 2000, 2d coupe/3d hatch 2000 Tii touring E10 2002ti, 2002tii 2d coupe E20 1973-74 1974 2002 turbo 2d coupe

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    13.1.2: 1600/1602

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    From: Ware Adams
    Date: Tue, 13 Aug 96 15:18:50 -0500
    Subject: 1600/1602

    >What are the major differences between the 1600 and 1602 (my
    >mechanic verified that the car has parts, especially brake bits,
    >from both models)?

    It depends. In the US most (all?) 1602’s were called “1600”, sothere can be some confusion between two and four door cars. I don’tknow if this is the case in Australia. If the car has two doors,then it is identical to a 1602. If it has four doors, then manymechanical parts will be identical, but most body/interior partswill be different. I believe that early four door cars did not havethe dual diagonal brakes that the ’02s came with after the earliestversions, so most brake parts are different, but by 1970 the fourdoors may have come with the diagonal circuits or the car could havebeen upgraded as it is an easy change.

    Ware
    ’72 & ’74 2002tii

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    13.1.3: 2002-Lux

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    (by [email protected] (Ware Adams))

    >I just talked to a guy who has what he says is a 2000TiLUX with a 2002Tii

    the tilux was a variation on the four door sedans that preceded andran concurrently with the ’02 series. The are quite upright, seatedfive people easily and significantly rarer than the ’02s. Theystarted with the 1500, continued with the 1600 (not 1600-2), 1800and then 2000. The 2 litre variant had a slightly modified bodywith much wider tail lights.

    On many of these models there were performance/luxury variants. The1600ti, 1800ti and 2000ti came with dual side draught Solex carbs ina set up that later found its way into the 2002ti and 1600ti (2 doorversion).

    The most interesting, rare and valuable variant of all was the1800tisa which had dual 45DCOE (I think, maybe 40DCOE) Webers andall sorts of racing set ups (seats, 5 speed CR transmission,etc…). Only 200+ were made for racing certification, and this wasreally the predecessor to the M3 (but much rarer — even in itsprime).

    The variant you are talking about were the 2000tilux which isessentially a 2000ti with some luxury trim and softer suspension(wood dash and centers on the instrument needles etc…). Theengine could be from a 2002tii or a 2000tii which was actuallyproduced prior to the 2-door injected model and as it sounds had themechanically fuel injected engine in the four door body. >a pictureof it, whether it came with a Tii engine stock, how easy to get>parts for,

    You can see a picture in most BMW books–it looks similar to any ofthe four door sedans. I know that the Brooklands 1600 Collectionhas a road test that includes a 1600 and a 2000tilux. Parts aremore difficult than 2002s if they do not coincide (eg most enginestuff is identical but body is difficult). However, if your willingto put the time in these cars are not all that rare, so you shouldbe able to get what you need.

    >worthwhile to restore

    With the exception of the 1800tisa these will never be collectorscars, so don’t plan on making your fortune with it. However, thereare much better ways to do that than cars, and if weird, old BMWsappeal to you I’d say go ahead. It isn’t as sporty as a 2002, andit even makes those cars look sleek when sitting next to it, butthere are those who like that (read: me).

    Sorry to be so long winded. If you decide to pass on this I wouldbe very interested in talking to the person who owns it, so let meknow what decision you come to.

    –Ware
    ’72 2002tii

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    13.1.4: 2002 tii

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    13.1.5: 2002 touring

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    13.1.6: Cabriolet

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    From: [email protected] (Bavarian Motor Warehouse)
    Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 13:41:06 -0500
    Subject: Baur Cabriolets

    >As the owner of a 02 ‘full convertible’ by Baur, I have followed the
    >recent postings on the subject with interest. There were 1,682
    >1600-2 ‘Vollcabrios’ built between January ’68 and June ’71. In
    >addition, exactly 200 >2002 ‘Vollcabrios’ were built between January
    >and June ’71.

    BMW production figures show a chassis # range from 1557001-1558682for 1600-2 Cabriolets which would mean 1682 built, but an articlefrom the _BMW Journal_ in 1980 about Baur said “1681… from late ’67through early ’71”. Where’d the other one go? Likewise, chassis #data allows for 200 2002 voll cabs, numbers 2790001-2790200,although the cutoff seems rather arbitrary and no one can accountfor all 200. I’ve seen #02 but it was pieced together by AIR(remember them?) from some other car, split across the floor pan; Ihope it wasn’t another cabrio donor for that frankensteinconstruction. I doubt there were even 200 made. The highestchassis # I’ve heard of is from Gunnar, #137.

    >The 1600-2 models were only available in three colors, Chamonix
    >(white), Granada (red) and Polaris (Silver metallic). The 2002
    >models (both ‘Vollcabrio’ and ‘targa’) were available in about ten
    >different colors.

    According to BMW documents, four colors were available for the1600-2 Cabriolets, (check the ’02 parts book): 023 Granada, 085Chamonix, 003 Mais-gelb (corn yellow), and 057 Polaris (not 060,curiously). I discovered this 4th color while cutting holes in myfirst Cab for the DOT side marker lights. This car was Sahara Beigebut had the strangest beige and yellow carpet. Knowing this wasn’tan original exterior color for the Cabs, I scraped one of the slugsleft from the marker light install and excavated a yellow color. This car is also one of the few full leather interior cabs built,saddle brown seats, door & side panels, headrests and top boot allleather. Heinz Baur said they built about 30 with leather.

    Any interested cabrio people, please respond. See #1333 at our homepage.

    Phil Marx (*=00=*) BMWCCA #6021
    Bavarian Motor Warehouse, Inc.
    416 W. Main St.
    (804) 293-8269 fax (804) 293-0817
    Charlottesville, VA. 22903
    Check out our Web page: http://www.comet.chv.va.us/bav/
    See the M635CSi and a few other lovely 2 & 4 wheel BMWs

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    13.1.7: 2002 Turbo

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    From: [email protected] (Bavarian Motor Warehouse)
    Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 14:50:05 -0400
    Subject: Turbo 2002

    >I think I remember seeing references to a turbocharged 2002 or 2002 tii.
    >Does anyone know if A) There is/was such a thing as a turbo 2002 tii,
    >B) What it would take to make a regular 2002 tii
    >into a turbo edition?
    >I have a 72 tii, which is a lot of fun, but I’m sure it would be even
    >better if it could be turbocharged! Then maybe I could catch that 400
    >HP Porsche that passed me like it was shot from a gun! ;-))

    Yes there is such a thing. In fact turbo #149 is sitting on myshowroom floor right now. All you need to do to recreate the turbois purchase a whole lot of expensive parts, drop your compression,add vented rotors, different axles, wider wheels, new injection pumpand auxiliary air regulator, alter the body to include flairs,rectangular tail lights, plastic grills, oil cooler, largerradiator, special seats, guages, steering wheel, fuel tank,spoilers, etc. Don’t forget to alter your VIN to fit the range ofthe 1672 that were built.

    [tii upgrade description moved to Section 13.9.6]

    Phil Marx BMWCCA #6021

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    13.1.8: Car Shopping and Prices

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    From: Ware Adams
    Date: Fri, 28 Jun 96 23:23:42 -0000
    Subject: Inspecting/Pricing

    >I will be kicking the tires on a ’76 2002 and a ’74 2002tii. Any
    >high / low price ranges for these models would also help a great.

    My opinions only, for what they are worth:

    1) Look for rust before all. Anything else can be fixed. Rust canbe fixed expensively, and even then you’ll wind up comprimising. Check all the usual spots: front indicators (though new fenders arecheap), nose panel (expensive, and US nose panels are NLA for ’74and later cars), rockers (especially on sunroof cars), doors (easyto replace, even if they are good; clean them inside and then spraywith Wurth’s wax like protector), rear fender lips, rear shocktowers, lip around gas tank, spare tire well, pedal box, floor,anywhere else there is metal.

    2) Rust-free cars are worth something — consider buying any yousee.

    3) Stock cars are worth more — they are rarer, and one forgets howwell-balanced a stock 2002 is. Anyone else will make differentmodification choices than you will. This is clearly a personalbias, though.

    4) Mechanically, ’02s are fairly tough. The transmissions(synchros) will go after a while, but they are cheap torepair/replace if you stick with a four speed. Check for oil blowby — rev to 5k in 1st, lift off the throttle, let the revs fall,and then floor it. If it smokes, the valve guides are likelywearing. If the cars have been sitting, the brakes will likely needwork. If the car has a lot of miles, it may well needshocks/springs/bushings. None of these are tough to do — they makeowning an ’02 enjoyable.

    ’76 2002s have a higher (numerically) rear end, so they will run athigher revs on the highway. Also, they have a fair amount of smoggear (and reduced hp, hence the higher rear end). The ’74 also hassome emissions equipment (relative to the ’73 and ’72 tii’s), butwill be noticeably quicker than the ’76. Make sure the tii isgenuine (a ’74 tii’s VIN should begin 278xxxx, and should match onthe fender (plaque and stamp) engine block, steering column,transmission and door sticker, though the trans. is tough to check,and many door stickers are removed during painting.

    Prices will range widely, and vary by location, but a ’76 in verygood, largely rust-free but unspectacular condition should bring$3-$4k, a similar ’74 tii may well be worth $5k or more. I’massuming very good body condition, fairly stock, but not concours byany means. Note this is very subjective.

    Ware’72 & ’74 2002tii

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    From: [email protected]
    Date: Mon, 01 Jul 96 09:35:32 PST
    Subject: ’02 valuation opinions

    > Prices will range widely, and vary by location

    WARNING: Everything below is purely my opinion.

    Ware [Adams] is right — pricing varies by region. In NorthernCalifornia, the prices seem to be running higher than they are downhere in Southern California (by as much as 25-40% higher for thesame car).

    FWIW, don’t even bother with the ’76 — trying to smog the car andthe long term enjoyment just aren’t there for a California residentwith a ’76 (or a ’75). I know of at least 4 ’75/’76 2002’s that arewonderful cars in the $2-3K range. I know there will be peoplethat’ll argue with me on this, but lets face facts:

    1) the smog eqpt. on a ’76 is expensive to replace; 2) the smog eqptchokes the living daylights out of the car; and 3) California willalways have stringent emissions inspections.

    The ‘tii is a different matter. A good ‘tii will get over $5k easy,and an excellent one should garner at least $10k. I love ‘tii’ssince they are relatively easy to have modified, they are easier tomuster through emissions requirements, and they are sporty enough incharacter to continue serving as a good daily driver. For example,there is a beautiful silver ’74 here in Orange County for sale for$7k, and IMO it is worth very near that. The round tail light carsare even stranger — for some reason people like them more [not me!:)].

    Here is my general rule of thumb: Assume that a ’72-’73 in very goodcondition with no rust is valued at $4-5k. Then adjust variousvalues of other 2002’s using the ’72-’73 as a benchmark like this:

     ’69-’71 : -$250 ’74 : -$500 ’75/’76 : -1500 (add $250-500 back for working smog eqpt) ’72-’73tii : +1500 to +2500 ’74tii : +1000 to +2000

    I subtract heavily for color changes (-$500 minimum) and add forunique colors that have not been changed (+$500 on average dependingupon the color — Golf for example is a positive, but Colorado maybe a negative or no change). A/C and sunroof add about $250 each(no additional value for Frigiking A/C systems). Tastefulmodifications like suspension and brakes, nice steering wheels, andperiod-correct road wheels all add to the value. Another reasonableaddition to value is decent seats, especially if front & back match.

    A car with noticeable and significant rust is a car I seriouslyconsider walking away from; in Southern California a little patiencecan be rewarded with a non-rust car. Nice features can counteractthe value of a low rust car to some degree, but eventually you willhave to deal with the rust, and that will not be fun.

    Any 2002 with a factory close ratio trans adds $500-1000, andlimited slip diffs add to the value.

    Here are my ’02-cents worth: – meet some quality CCA members in the GGC. – look at LOTS of 2002’s before buying one — you’ll be surprised how people view their own cars. – locate a quality ’02 mechanic with experience, a want, and adesire to work on 2002’s and have them check out any car you areinterested in buying.

    Cheers, Brian Foster

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    From: Ware Adams
    Date: Sat, 2 Dec 1995 18:37:38 -0500
    Subject: Better/Worse Models

    >What are the better years/models and things to look for on the car?

    Many are partial to round tail lights (’68-’73), but ’74-’76 havebumpers that will survive better on the streets. The ’74 and latercars have more emissions controls and are heavier, so they areslower. ’75 and ’76 (CA only for ’76, I believe) had thermalreactors which can crack heads easily. Also, I believe the ’76 hada lower rear end which makes highway driving quite noisy. In anycase, the most important thing to look for (and avoid) is rust!

    >Are there easy mods that are inexspensive as well that can be done
    >to 2002’s?

    Nothing is that tough — it’s a pretty simple car. A performancecarb and suspension set up usually works out quite well.

    >How do they compare to the 320i’s?

    Older, less luxurious, louder, more rust. But also simpler to workon, faster (for given set-up because of weight), and I think morefun. Also, there is a significantly greater 2002 following than forthe 320i; realize this drives up their cost.

    For all of this you may want to check out the ’02 web page:http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~efrank/2002.html

    Ware’72 & ’74 2002tii’s

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    From: [email protected] (Bavarian Motor Warehouse)
    Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 14:16:41 -0400
    Subject: Buying a used BMW

    I’ve just had such an awful experience, I had to share it with myfriends on the list, as much to vent my frustrations as it is a lastditch attempt to help someone else.

    We have been consigning a 2002tii for sale for about a month andrepresented it fairly as an original ’73, repainted only, no sheetmetal replaced ever and no rust. Several people looking at it wereput off by the owner’s asking price ($9995) which I said would benegotiable if they made a real offer I could bring to the owner as areality check. One looker actually went to the O’fest to try toincrease his knowledge of these cars and I spent considerable timewith him explaining differences and telling him what to look for.Seems he found a ’72 tii in PA through a parental businessassociate, and went to see it and bought it. All so well and good.He called me to tell me about it and just brought it by an hour agoto show it to me and ask my opinion. Ever been in this spot before?It shows up, what do I say? Everything I told him to look for isdisplayed, textbook style in this bad example which he paid over$8000 for. The car was in the Roundel classifieds (July) as”meticulously maintained” … “beauty” … “fully restored” …”fresh, immaculate example, one of the best to be found anywhere”.

    Now here’s the problem. The car was obviously hit in the front, hasa badly fitted new front panel, bent and reworked front frame rails,non-BMW front fenders, poor hood fit, 73 bumber brackets, rust inthe rockers you can push your thumb through (and this is not asunroof car), aluminum screen door extrusion door sill covers*screwed* into the sill, repaired rear outer and inner wheel houseso bad you’d cut your hand reaching into the fender opening, withrust bubbling underneath the “new” fjord paint. Even thenon-functioning inertia reel seat belt mechanisms are “colormatched” as is the edge of the carpet. The door latch buffers areauthentic 8-mm fuel line, the $2 5×7 speakers in the rear shelf areso poorly placed as to require remounting of the vapor tank. Theseats are not original for the car which is a late ’72 (alum.intakes) and the drivers seat was previously the passenger seat ofits first mount, complete with the overhang over the door sill andthe seat-back release on the *inside*. Normal dash cracks, doorpanels soggy with no vapor barrier on the doors, and ripped outholes for the panel clips. Wheels are early BBS with the FWD-stylecurve to the “basket” and 2 are bent. Trunk has center emblem onit, rear panel 2002tii logo is above the horizontal trim with smallroundel misplaced below (yes, 2 roundels when viewed from the back).

    The owner says he was told the engine was rebuilt at 30k miles (whathappened?) but the Roundel ad says rebuilt 30k ago in the mid-80’s. The head casting is ’80-something but could discern no ser. # on theblock. Valve train sounds like a freight train and the total mileageon the car is attested to be 80k. Lots of paper work including anaccounting of the butchery executed on the body, about 5 pages withtotals like $8k, but with the shop’s name cut out of the copies(why). Said it was cause he paid in cash, any IRS folks on thedigest? It came shod with A008-Rs with obvious track use but themake-shift seating and inoperative seat belts lead me to believe wehad a track-used car “decontented” for resale.

    What bothers me about this? That old-line BMWCCA members wouldmis-represent a car so badly in the Roundel? That maybe they don’tknow what a good car is? That someone I spent time with was unableto take away enough knowledge to make an informed purchase? Thatthe public’s expectations are so far below mine that I’m wasting mytime and energy? I don’t really know, it’s just sort of depressingto see it happen, to know that what I’ve experienced in 2002ownership for 25 years will probably not be enjoyed by this ownerwith high expectations and yet such poor judgement. And what can Itell him, after the fact, about a purchase which he is thanking mefor helping him make? Thanks for listing. If you’re in the market,listen to what people are telling you!

    -Phil Marx BMWCCA #6024 (Sept. Roundel, pg.49)

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    13.1.9: Parts & Service

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    From: [email protected]
    Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 21:21:11 -0400
    Subject: BMW Mobile Tradition and ’02 Parts

    As posted in the past, I have been very successful in obtaininginformation regarding my Euro 2002tii Lux from BMW Mobile Tradition.I recently sent them a letter regarding NLA parts and received thefollowing reply.

    One part (20-220 KPH Speedo) was available in their warehouse. Theyprovided info on how to order.

    They confirmed NLA status of the remaining parts and referred me to”our type specialist for BMW 02-models”:

    team Andexer
    Auf den Pothen 35
    42 553 Velbert
    Germany
    Phone: (0) 2053-922222
    Fax: (0) 2053-922223

    They carry new and refurbished parts.

    They also referred me to “our recommended US 02-specialist”:

    Maximillian ConoverBaltimore, MDPhone: 410-744-2697Fax: 410-744-5678

    BTW, this was my 3rd written inquiry to Mobile Tradition. All threewere answered within 2 weeks, thoroughly and above my expectations. Try them:

    BMW Mobile TraditionD-80788 MunchenGermany

    Mike – 1974 Euro 2002tii Lux

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    From: Ware Adams
    Date: Thu, 15 Aug 96 09:53:23 -0500
    Subject: BMW 2002 Rubber

    >Can someone recommend where to purchase rubber for a BMW 2002 doors,
    >bonnet, and boot.

    You could try:

    Maximillian at 800-950-2002. They probably know the most about thecars, but won’t be the cheapest.

    Bimmer Parts Co at 800-274-2466. I think they have a kit for thissort of thing.

    Or a dealer that gives a good CCA discount (Hendrick in NorthCarolina for example).

    Ware
    ’72 & ’74 2002tii

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    From: [email protected]
    Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 22:42:34 -0500
    Subject: Ernies Alloys

    Ernie’s is OK in my past expierence. His specialty is Porsche wheels,and his customers are probably all as fussy you. Now if I can justfigure out why I recommend my competitors …

    OZ, alias Robert at the Tire Rack

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    13.1.10: Books and References

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    From: Ware Adams
    Date: Sat, 2 Dec 1995 18:37:38 -0500
    Subject: Better/Worse Models

    … you may want to check out the ’02 web page:

    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~efrank/2002.html

    Ware
    ’72 & ’74 2002tii’s

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    From: Fred Dushin
    Date: Fri, 13 Sep 96 10:00:23 EDT
    Subject: <02> posts and alt.autos.bmw

    In case people haven’t heard, there is a (new?) newsgroup in thealt.* hierarchy dedicated to bmws:

    alt.autos.bmw

    I will *not* be scanning this newsgroup for 2002-related posts forinclusion in the bmw 2002 mailing list archives:

    http://web.syr.edu/~fadushin/archives/

    so any post you make there will not be archived. If you want yourposts to be archived at the above URL, please continue using thebmw-digest.

    Oh, and whoever got people on to the idea of slapping an ‘<02>‘in the Subject: field of messages, thanks. It helps a lot.

    -Fred
    ’73 02, waiting for its annual winter hibernation

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    From: Curtis A. Ingraham
    Subject: BMW Price Book and 2002 Parts Book

    BMW sells a PRICE book and a 2002 PARTS book.

    The PRICE book is: 88-88-7-000-776 at $16.50 list. It is a stack of8.5×11 sheets punched for a US 3-ring binder. No binder is included.

    The 2002 PARTS book is: 01-09-9-760-244 at $36.50 (first half), and 01-09-9-760-245 at $36.50 (second half)Each half comes in a 4-ring european binder with dividers.

    The prices I quoted are from the May 1996 price book. The pricebook is updated infrequently, but BMW NA sends price updates to thedealers more often; dealers sometimes call these “tape” prices. Theprice we pay seems to be a loose function of the book price or thetape price. For example, when I bought the May price book, myinvoice read $18.98 LIST and $14.02 NET (NET = after club discount),even though the “official” price in the book is $16.50. The partsbooks cost me $41.98 LIST –> $31.02 NET.

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    13.1.11: Folklore

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    From: “Paul F. Kunz”
    Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 22:01:27 -0700
    Subject: September Roundel

    The September issue of the Roundel is dedicated to the 2002, thismonth being the 30th aniversity of the introduction the the model… I was disappointed that none of the 2002 articles in theRoundel mentioned some things about the car I thought weresignificant:

    – There were spacers under the shock tower mounts so the head lightswhould be a minimum distance above the ground. A standard thing todo, at least I thought it was standard, was to move this spacers toabove the shock mounting point so as to lower the car to itsoriginal European height. None of the “definitive” Roundel authorsseems to have known about that.

    – The heresay is that Max Hoffman, first importer of BMW to America,convinced the factory that the 1600 was a great car but it neededthe 2.0 Liter engine to be successful. Thus the 2002 was bornbecause of American influence. Now maybe this is just a tale, butI found no mention of it at all.

    – There is also one aspect of the 2002 that I wouldn’t expectAmerican authors to pick up. In Europe at the time, all sedans werefour doors. The 2002 was a very exceptional sedan by the mere factthat it only had two doors. Even cars much smaller than the 2002had four doors. Except for a few luxury cars, the 2002 was a largecar for Europe, yet it only had two doors … I bought mine in Europeand when I looked at it parked at work, it appeared larger than mostof my colleagues cars. But this was France where even the 2CV (deuxcheveaux) had four doors.

    – There were at least two mentions that the article was written bythe orginizer of the annual ’02 fest East. But there was no mentionof the original and continuing 2002 fest held in California. As_THE_ person who started the first 2002fest, I find this a bitdisturbing. Actually, my wife and I dispute who had the idea, butwe did motivate the Golden Gate Chapter to host the very first 2002fest in North America. We had 75 rust free (except for one) 2002sin that first event. I didn’t find any mention of this event in thespecial issue Rondel. I think it worthy of mention, since I thinkthat no where else in the world can you find so many 2002 in thesame parking lot except at a 2002 fest (East or West coastversions).

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    13.2: Body

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    13.2.1: Rust

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    From: [email protected]
    Date: Mon, 20 Feb 1995 15:22:05 -0600 (CST)
    Subject: 2002 turn signal rust

    >I just started the job of replacing most of the rubber body gaskets
    >on my 2002, and have found the beginnings of the usual rust along
    >the top of the front turn signal cavity. I am going to sand this
    >down and paint it with a rust inhibitor, but eventually the fenders
    >will need to be replaced.

    This is usually the first place on the fender to rust out. Fortunately, fenders for the 2002 are pretty inexpensive.

    >Does anyone have a way to prevent this from happening again with the
    >new fenders (or slowing it with the current ones). The insides of
    >the cavities for the turn signals are very clean and dry, and the
    >rust is on the top, not the bottom. Thus it seems that the crease
    >between the top of the turn signal cavity and the bottom side of the
    >fender “roof” is catching dirt/moisture, and the rust is growing
    >from there. Any successful modifications?

    The problem is that the turn signal housing is a “cup”, which leavesa space between the top of the cup, and the underside of the top ofthe fender. Great place for mud, water, salt, etc. to collect. Theproblem is made worse on some cars by the factory undercoating. Seemingly, some cars only received a little undercoating in thisarea, while others were loaded up. The ones that had minimalundercoating tended to last _longer_ than the loaded up ones. Theundercoating would crack as it got old, making an even bettermoisture trap.

    The entire area in general is a mud/moisture trap, causing the nosepanel to rust in the same area.

    >I believe I remember Mike Self suggesting in the Roundel about 10
    >years ago that badly rusted fenders could just have the area around
    >this crease removed, but that seems like a solution one would use
    >for rust that already exists rather than preventing it on new
    >fenders.

    The solution, if your fenders are not too rusty, is to cut out thetop of the cup that the signal is in. Extend the vertical wall ofthe cup up to the roof of the fender (provided that this area isstill good). That way, there is no 1/4-in gap or so for dirt tocollect in. Mike gave a lecture on this at Gateway Tech last year. And I’m sure he’ll be doing so again this year.

    For new fenders, I normally just prime and paint the area well. Idon’t undercoat it. And I just flush out the fenders when I washthe car.

    Actually, there was a terrific article on 2002 rust, written by MikeSelf, in a Roundel about 10-12 years ago. I can dig it up if anyone’sinterested.

    Ben

    —————————

    From: “TENCCUA.BRUMWE01”
    Date: 18 Jul 1996 16:45:16 EDT
    Subject: Floor and frame rail rust

    Maximillian sells replacement floor pans for ’02s now. They ain’tcheap, but they look good. The driver’s side one may have the gasattachment dohicky. A rusty frame rail is another matter.

    My ’02 had rusty floors and the gas pedal also came off. I had alocal guy who builds dirt track cars weld some new sheet metal intothe floors after removing the cancer. He used the old pedalattachment dohicky and welded it in the correct spot. Works like achamp. Fortunately my frame rails were in good shape. My guess isreplacing frame rails can be done. It just depends on how much youwant to spend.

    matt brumwell, smoky mountain chapter ‘cca, ’75 2002, ’87 535is, ’88 M3

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    13.2.2: Badges and Emblems

    —————————

    From: Ware Adams
    Date: Wed, 3 Jul 96 15:20:38 -0500
    Subject: 2002tii Badge

    >I have two new in bag turbo nameplates, 51-14-1-834-966 (NLA), but I
    >want $15,000 a piece for them, cheap when you consider they’ll make
    >your car almost like the real thing. Or might trade for similar
    >condition “2002tii” emblem for early cars, might.

    I’m sure Phil wants the early tii emblems so badly because theoriginals are NLA. The best tip I ever got from the list (from BenThongsai) was that the 2002tii badge that went on the touring willfit the early tii. It is a little more compressed than the realthing, but the pins fit into the holes on the body perfectly, andfor some reason these emblems are still available (or they were asof a year ago).

    –Ware

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    13.2.3: Doors

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Curtis A. Ingraham)
    Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 07:58:14 -0700
    Subject: Door Latch Difficulty

    >I’m having difficulty closing the passenger side door on my ’76
    >2002. The latch will not engage unless I slam the door. This usually
    >takes 3-4 tries

    This can be caused by a loose strike plate on the door jamb. Itappears to be tight but moves inward when you close the door. Tryloosening it, moving it outward slightly, then tightening it. Ifthat helps, adjust it so the door is flush with the body whenclosed, then tighten it securely.

    Sam Chien-shin Lin adds:

    You need to adjust the striker plate. The hardest part is trying toget that huge phillips screw loose. I had to use an impact driverwith a screw tip. You hit it hard with a hammer, and it turns afraction of a turn to break the screw loose.

    After loosening the screws, try adjusting the plate outwards alittle at a time until it closes right.

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Stanley Phan)
    Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 21:12:46 -0800 (PST)
    Subject: Door seals

    I replaced my original door seals about a year ago. I used 3MWeatherstripping glue. Works very well and is easy to clean up;it’s sort of like industrial strength rubber cement. One thing thatwas a big concern was that new seals made the doors very difficultto close. I’m not sure if this a normal thing. It took almost ayear before the doors seals were reasonably broken in so the doorscould close easily.

    -Stanley Phan
    ’72 02

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Fred Beck)
    Date: Thu, 30 Mar 95 12:43:08 PST
    Subject: Door seals

    Replacing Door Gaskets (2002): (1) Stanleys’ suggestion for 3M gluesounds good. I used a Wurth product, which is also basically astrong rubber cement. (2) You might try acetone as a solvent. Iused a scraper to gently scrape off the old adhesive. (3) I alsofound that the doors are hard to close after replacing the seals. They are easier to close with the windows down. I ran into aproblem with the window glass sticking to the door seals and tearingthem. I think this was after a hot day. I sprayed the seals withsilicone and it seems to help.

    –Fred
    ’73 2002tii

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    13.2.4: Seats

    —————————

    From: Bruce Showalter
    Date: Sun, 15 Sep 96 22:00:27 -0000
    Subject: Horse hair seat pads

    I am interested in breathing new life in my seats. I’m not too keenon changing to the 3 series seats yet, but the horse hair pads arerunning about $79 dollars each so that comes out to about $160 perseat. I’d like to keep the car as stock as possible, so for themoment the horse hair pads seem the most likely.

    Bruce Showalter

    —————————

    From: Barry Wellman
    Date: Sun, 15 Sep 1996 18:50:58 -0400 (EDT)
    Subject: Seatbelt / Starter Interlock

    This is a tale of the dreaded seatbelt interlock, found (thankfullyenough) only on 1974 North American spec. models:

    In July 1974, Bev & I got our new North American spec. ’02 throughEuropean delivery at Park Motors, central London. It was a matterof great admiration to all, because of the big kick-ass bumpers.(Especially admired in our drive down the Dalmation coast, Irecall.)

    On delivery, we drove straight to our UK insurance brokers to getcoverage. For some reason, we got lost in London, and parked tophone for directions. (Yes folks, in those ancient times, bimmersdid not have cellphones.) When we returned to the car, it would notstart – only 5 miles and 30 minutes after delivery. Inconsternation, we called Park Motors.

    “Oh,” they said, “you are a victim of US safety regulations whichnewly require that a car won’t start unless you are sitting in itwith your seat belt buckled.”

    “But we are!”

    They thought, and then realized that BMW engineers had assumed thatbroad Bavarian butts would be occupying the driver’s seat.(Compiling with Naderization was not BMW’s forte in those days.) Thesolution:

    “Jump up and down on the seat a few times so that the interlocksensor will think that you are heavier.”

    It worked!

    What worked even better was our first mod: disconnecting theinterlock system entirely the next day. It was well engineered forsuch purposes, merely requiring undoing a simple snap-in wiringconnection under the driver’s seat.

    The car never gave us any trouble after that, including doing a 5Kkilometre circle tour of European back roads and mountain passes.

    We’ve only driven small BMWs ever since; we’re on our third one(1990 ix). We christen each new purchase by jumping up and down onthe driver’s seat. They, too, have never given us any trouble.

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    13.2.5: Glass

    —————————

    From: Bruce Showalter
    Date: Sun, 15 Sep 96 22:00:27 -0000
    Subject: Windshields

    I have been calling around to various San Francisco/Bay Area glassinstallers to find what is available and for how much. The bestprices I have found so far are around $230 for BMW OEM windshields,or $120 for domestic “premium” glass (one company mentionedPittsburgh Glass as a supplier) uninstalled. I have been warned byseveral people that going with a domestic non-OEM glass oftenresults in leakage.

    Bruce Showalter

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    13.2.6: Upholstery

    —————————

    From: Ware Adams
    Date: Tue, 24 Sep 96 23:17:48 -0500
    Subject: Bleached out seats and carpet

    >Has anyone tried to refresh the colors by whatsoever means ? How
    >were the results ? Are new seat covers available ? (They are not in
    >Germany, at least not for the blue cloth/vinyl interior that I
    >have).

    There is a US company called World Upholstery and Trim that has alot of NLA ’02 interior fabrics (that they remanufacture). Theyadvertise in Hemmings Motor News which is probably unavailable inEurope, and I think they have a web page at www.worlduph.com

    Another option is to get in touch with Jaymic in England:

    Jaymic LtdNorwich Road CromerNorfolk, NR27 0HFENGLANDWk: 44 263 511710Fx: 44 263 514133

    I believe they remake some seat covers and carpets as well.

    Good luck,
    Ware
    ’72 & ’74 2002tii

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    13.3: Engine

    ============================

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    13.3.1: Emissions

    —————————

    From: Keith Gawlik
    Date: Mon, 5 Dec 1994 22:15:49 -0700 (MST)
    Subject: 2002 Emissions

    I just jumped through the annual emissions hoop here in Colorado.

    The current emissions levels for a ’75 2002 are 3.5% CO and 600 ppmHC. My car, with a Weber carb, passes fine without the smog pump,but I have to put on the air injection equipment to pass the visualinspection. With that stuff on, I passed with 1.16 % CO and 83 ppmHC (at idle), and 0.26 % CO and 46 ppm HC (at 2500 rpm). Only theidle reading counts in the current test.

    When the enhanced emissions program begins in the Denver metro areain January, the emissions standards above will still be used. Therewill also be a test that the gas cap seals, and that the A/C is notleaking freon. The two additional tests are for ’75 and newer cars.

    It’s a relief that I won’t have to go through the IM240 lanes. These are for ’81 and newer cars, and involve the dyno testmentioned in the Roundel. In this region, the testing centers arenot built yet, and state legislators are getting so steamed up aboutit they are considering finding a way to delay the start of theprogram. I read that in Maine and Pennsylvania, the program hasbeen delayed because of revolts and reconsiderations. Envirotest,based in Phoenix, has the exclusive contract to run the centers inColorado, and has been the center of a controversy. Apparently, theHealth Dept., which is in charge of the air quality program, awardedthis company the contract even though two other companies were lowerbidders, and Envirotest is not ready for a single test yet.

    The goal in this area is a 30 % reduction in CO by the end of nextyear, or else the region faces sanctions in the form of havingwithheld $320 million in highway funds and requiring industries toinstall scrubbers.

    In any case, I believe it depends on the region how exactly theIM240 test is implemented. The GAO has made statements that theIM240 is so unreliable that a repaired car still may not pass.

    As far as 2002s go, it won’t be a problem getting the test done inthis region for next year. I think it’ll only be a matter of time,though, before the older cars have to go on the dyno, and they’ll betested for NOx, CO, and HC through a simulated driving cycle. Either that, or the state will decide that you simply can’t use anyolder car on certain days in winter, which was proposed last yearand promptly shot down (don’t get me started on this).

    Keith Gawlik    [email protected]
    Boulder, CO    (303) 384-6260
    ’71 R75/5, ’75 2002

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Curtis A. Ingraham)
    Date: Mon Aug 12 09:40:08 1996
    Subject: tii smog test results

    Here are the California smog test results for my ’72 2002tii:

     Before Adj After Adj Maximum Emission 10-93 10-93 1-95 Allowed———– ———- ——— —— ——-

    HC (ppm) 390 196 313 350CO (%) 7.54 2.62 5.91 6.5CO2 (%) 9.9 13.0 9.3O2 (%) 0.9 1.0 3.9

    The 10-93 test was performed by a bargain-basement smog testshop. As you can see from the “Before” and After” measurements,the mechanic was able to make a huge change in emissions eventhough he seemed to have no particular knowledge of the tiiengine. I suspect that an experienced tii mechanic couldproduce good emissions and good running, too.

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    13.3.2: Poor Performance

    ============================

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    13.3.3: Cylinder Head

    —————————

    From: “Steve D’Gerolamo”
    Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 14:36:37 -0400
    Subject: Valve Cover Nut Torque

    >I tightened the valve cover nuts to “tight enough” ie by feel,
    >not wanting to bust off the studs from the head. Looks like
    > it’s not enough … Ready to apply the correct amount of torque,
    >if I only knew what it was! Checked Haynes, couldn’t find it.

    I believe the figure is around 9-10 lb-ft, below the range of mosttorque wrenches. Use a 1/4″ drive wrench with the appropriate 10-mmsocket and tighten gently and carefully (with one hand). Thealuminum valve covers will crack from overtightening. (Be sure anduse a 6-mm spring washer under each nut — you can enhance theappearance by changing the nuts to nickel chromate dome nuts.)

    Steve D’Gerolamo c/o The Ultimate Garage, Emerson, NJ (201-262-0412)

    —————————

    From: “Richard W. Hall”
    Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 22:45:56 -0400 (EDT)
    Subject: 02 value cover torque settings

    Just went through the same drill on my ’74 2002tii. Hand tight justdidn’t stop the leaking. Haynes calls the valve cover a rockercover and specifies 8 lb-ft. Also checked BMW service manual;couldn’t find specific numbers for valve cover, but it specifies 8lb-ft for timing chain covers. Manual does have tightening sequencefor valve cover nuts:

     6 2 4 rear 7 front 3 1 5 Numbers are value cover nuts.

    Rich Hall
    ’74 2002tii
    ’86 535i

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Dan, Marilyn, Phil Patzer)
    Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 18:35:52 -0700 (PDT)
    Subject: Banjo Bolt for oil spray tube

    This hollow bolt must have a thick & soft crush-ring both above andbelow the oil tube. The bolts tend to come loose as the tighteningtorque is so little, and they’re under pulsing pressure to loosen. I install these gently and with a little “Loctite” on clean threads,then I check the bolt tension each time the valve cover is off.

    Dan Patzer
    the CyberWrench from Bimmers Only

    —————————

    From: “Steve D’Gerolamo”
    Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 14:36:37 -0400
    Subject: Oil Spray Tube & Hollow Bolts

    There should be two 8.5×11-mm aluminum crush rings (doublethickness) at each hollow bolt. Failure to use these can cause thetube to crush and will cause oiling problems.

    Steve D’Gerolamo c/o The Ultimate Garage, Emerson, NJ (201-262-0412)

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Dan, Marilyn, Phil Patzer)
    Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 05:52:31 -0700 (PDT)
    Subject: Ticking engines

    Excessive “Valve noise” while the valves are properly set cansometimes be attributed to “flat spots” on the cam lobes, whichcause gouges in the rocker scuff pads.

    Another more elusive sound source is “CONCAVITY” of the end of thevalve stem. As the valve clearance is set, the feeler gauge measuresthe distance from the valve stem “rim” to the rocker eccentric. Infact, the eccentric contacts the “center” of the valve stem, whichmay be lower than the rim, thus the excessive clearance.

    If you suspect this of a particular valve, because of loose feel byhand, or sound location by stethoscope, compare the rocker to camclearance of a “good” rocker to the “bad” one. Too bad BMW doesn’tpublish the expected cam-to-rocker clearance, but it shouldn’t betoo hard to figure.

    An old ’02 trick in getting valve clearances back to “spec” was touse a “VALVE-stem LASH-cap” (8-mm valve stem) from an Alph Romeo, oreven from certain VW’s, atop the problem valve. This will give aflat, albeit taller surface for the rocker to contact. The “eta”engine has 7-mm valve stems, and I’ve never looked for 7-mmlash-caps. I’ll start asking around.

    The 8-mm lash-caps are available on the aftermarket. Get the”Hardened” ones. Give a call if you need help installing them.

    Dan Patzer
    the CyberWrench from BIMMERS ONLY 206-743-2002

    —————————

    From: Bren
    Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 17:48:34 -0700
    Subject: Adjustable Cam Sprocket

    >What is the principal of the adjustable sprocket on a SINGLE
    >OVERHEAD CAM engine like the 02? I can understand varying the
    >intake/exhaust timing on a DOHC engince, but this relationship would
    >seem to be “fixed” on a SOHC?

    The cam gear that you refer to is not variable; it is adjustable. Theprinciple works like this…..

    When you mill your block and head a lot, the cam is then retardedfrom where the designer intended the lobes to be. By advancing thecam timing, you are able to get the correct valve timing.

    Bren

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Terry Donohue)
    Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 23:31:40 -0600
    Subject: Rocker Ratio

    >I am attempting to determine what cam I have in my 2002. The
    >machinists working on my engine suggested that if I find out the
    >rocker ratio, he could determine the degree of the cam. (There isn’t
    >a casting on the cam indicating its duration). This car is running
    >40 DCOEs and high CR pistons so I’m thinking that the cam may not be
    >stock (264 degree duration) but I’m not sure. Is there a rocker
    >ratio associated with the different cam durations?

    BMW used exactly the same rocker arm geometry for the original 4cyl. engines from ’63 through ’83. Unlike some American car tuners,where the effective lift of a cam can be increased through changingthe rocker arm geometry, this was never done with BMW’s to the bestof my knowledge. So all cams, from stock to Schrick 336 used thesame rocker arm geometry.

    The precise ratio is a subject of debate, though. Schrick says it’s1.31 (valve lift/cam lift); everyone else has measured a smallernumber: Metric Mechanic, Lee Johnson, and Webcam get 1.25; PeteMcHenry measures 1.23; I’ve measured 1.24. In any case, the bestway to determine what type of cam you have is to measure the camitself, which is easy to do in the head. Measuring cam lift is muchmore accurate than trying to measure duration. Measure the basecircle (stock is 26.8 mm); then measure the “heel to toe”, which isthe top of the cam lobe to bottom of the circle. Stock is 6.88 mm;the BMW/Alpina 300 is 7.66; a Schrick 304 is 8.15. I havemeasurements for a number of other cams if you’re interested.

    Terry Donohue
    ’71 2002Ti
    ’90 Audi 200TQ
    ’95 M3

    —————————

    From: Andrew West
    Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 16:06:06 +1000
    Subject: Exhaust smoke

    >I thought my car didn’t burn oil at all, but recently I’ve noticed
    >an increase in the puff of smoke that comes out of the tailpipe
    >immediately after starting the car. Otherwise there is no smoke
    >whatsoever, and it only seems to happen after prolonged periods
    >when the car is parked (overnight). What causes this to happen?

    The usual cause of the symptoms you describe is worn valve-stem oilseals.

    When the engine is stationary one of the exhaust valves is oftenopen (it has something to do with another cylinder being on thecompression stroke and stopping before top-dead-centre when youswitch off). A little oil drips down the stem into the cylinder,and when you start the car it gets burnt: hence the smoke, and alittle oil makes a lot of smoke!

    The common test for this (an old 2002 buyer’s check) is to rev theengine to about 4500 RPM in neutral, back off the throttle, and thenfloor it again briefly when it has wound down to about 1500 RPM. Thestrong vacuum caused by closing the throttle at high revs tends tosuck oil past the inlet valve oil seals, and causes a short puff ofsmoke when the throttle is opened again. You could try this test.Another way to check the same thing is to select a low gear anddescend a steep hill with the engine spinning above 3500 RPM with aclosed throttle. Get back on the power at the bottom of the hilland check how much of a grey cloud follows you!

    I had your symptoms as an “intermittent” problem on a newly-rebuiltengine (Datsun) that had one leaky exhaust valve seal. If stoppedovernight with THAT valve open, it would smoke in the morning,otherwise not. It took a while to diagnose.

    Andrew West, ’83 318i, BMW Club Queensland, Australia

    —————————

    From: Ware Adams
    Date: Wed, 3 Jul 96 23:07:51 -0500
    Subject: head replcement questions

    From a 2000CS I rebuilt (engine same as 2002ti):

    >If I take the entire head out with manifolds attached, is this how
    >it should go back on, or should I bolt the head and then attach the
    >manifolds?

    I was rebuilding the carbs as well. I found it easiest to pull thehead with the manifolds and carbs attached, remove everything, putthe head back by itself and then put the manifolds and carbs on. Onthe ti engine there is a coolant tube beneath the manifolds that iseasier to handle this way, IMO.

    >Anything else I should be aware of that’s not covered in Chilton’s?

    If you mill the head, make sure you mill the front timing chaincover as well.

    Ware
    ’72 & ’74 2002tii

    ——————————

    From: Oleg Perelet
    Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 21:48:49 -0500 (CDT)
    Subject: head replacement technique

    >Can I take the entire head out with the manifolds attached ?

    Just undo three 17-mm nuts at manifold/downpipe and take whole thingout. After, it will be easy to get exhaust/intake nuts out. Betterbuy new exhaust nuts; they are not pricy.

    >Can I re-use these head bolts if they look alright? I’ve heard
    >conflicting advice about whether these bolts are designed to strech.

    About head bolts: on normal 02’s (<11:1 compression) stock ones aregood; I never heard any complains about them, but there are placesthat sell $$$ replacements.

    >Hoping new valve seals will stop my burning oil problem

    For one month, maybe. If you are taking head off/apart, get newvalve guides and ask your friendly machine shop to freeze them in(usually they charge about $6-10 per guide).

    Oleg.
    E30M3&02’s

    —————————

    From: Oleg Perelet
    Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 12:44:04 -0500 (CDT)
    Subject: E12 Head and Flat Piston lower end = Good Combo ?

    – Factory correct? – NO
    – Create higher compression? – NO
    – A bad idea? – NO (if it’s really rebuilt & cheap)
    – Create less compression? – YES
    – A good option?- NO (but again if it’s rebuit & cheap, YES)
    – Mess up an engine quicker? – NO

    Oleg
    E30M3&02’s

    —————————

    From: Fredrik Skog
    Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 14:18:52 +0200 (MET DST)
    Subject: 1802 head code number

    The head marked 118 comes from an 1802, which I believe never weresold in the states, but is quite common here in Europe. The 118head has smaller valves and the older style combustion chambers withhigher CR. If you have this head, then you most likely also have a1.8-l bottom end with 80-mm bore and 71-mmm stroke (same crank asthe 1602).

    Fredrik Skog, ’70 2002 ti
    WWW: http://www.ts.umu.se/~skog/

    —————————

    From: [email protected]
    Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 17:49:46 -0400
    Subject: cylinder head code# for 2002

    The 118 head is from an earlier 1.6 or 1.8 liter car.

    Bren

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    13.3.4: Ignition

    —————————

    From: Filippo Morelli
    Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 15:43:08 -0700 (PDT)
    Subject: Electronic Ignition

    >The old points ignition in my 73 2002 is a little weak for the dual
    >Mikunis I have feeding the engine now. I was thinking of replacing the
    >points with a Pertronics Ignitor and installing an MSD 6AL box & coil.
    >Anybody have experience with either of these products?, installation
    >tips?, btw, does the 6Al require a Tach adapter for the factory tach?

    I’ve done this conversion at several levels. My recommendation isto purchase the MSD6AL and VDO tach adapter. You do not need thePertronics junk. The points can be used as a signal for the MSD(the instructions explain). This works great, as the points simplybecome a switch – gap and wear no longer become an issue.

    With the new setup, I’d recommend getting an MSD coil and a decentset of plug wires — Taylor SpiroPro 8-mm can be ordered in a “rollyour own” set which allows you to cut the wires to the right sizefor the car. Once you have the setup working, look to increase yourplug gap, as the MSD will be capable of bridging a larger gap. Iran NGK plugs with my setup — you may decide to use Bosch.

    With the Mikunis, you will notice easier cold starts more thananything else.

    Filippo
    P.S. You can purchase the setup fairly cheap from Summit Racing.

    —————————

    From: Joe Fahy <[email protected]>
    Date: 16 Aug 96 06:37:11 EDT
    Subject: Pertronix Ignition

    I installed the Pertronix unit on my ’74 911S Porsche, and it worksgreat, a highly recommended point/condensor replacement. I used anAllison (Crane) optical system previously; it uses an LED/receiverpair with a slotted shutter between the LED and the receiver. Thefit and quality of the Pertronix unit is better than OEM. I havebeen using the Pertronix unit for about 1.5 years.

    Joe Fahy
    ’88 ///M5

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Bavarian Motor Warehouse) Phil Marx
    Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 17:37:47 -0400
    Subject: tii spark plugs

    >What is the appropriate spark plug rating when running 9.5:1
    >compression with a 285 (or so) cam in an E12 head? The factory spec
    >for this CR is W175T30 (Bosch), but this is with the stock cam.
    >(This seems like an old numbering system, or is it still used?)
    >Previously I had 8.3:1 CR pistons and Bosch W8DC or NGK BP5ES plugs.
    >For the last year I’ve run Bosch WR9DC with the low compression
    >pistons and they worked fine, but I prefer the NGK.

    I would try the NGK BP6ES and if you have no problem with fouling,they should be fine. I’ve always found my tii’s ran the best,particularly in the city, on NGK BP5ES, but I’ve used the 6’s on thetrack with good results

    ============================

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    13.3.5: Rebuilding

    —————————

    From: [email protected]
    Date: Mon, 15 Jul 96 10:13:09 EDT
    Subject: <02> tii engine rebuilding info

    From Fred Beck’s questions concerning rebuilding his tii engine:

    Q: Does the compression test with oil injected give a good measureof the valve condition? i.e., I know that 125 psi is poor, but couldthis be due solely to the rings and walls, even with the oilsquirted in?

    A: The “wet” test certainly indicates that you have a ring/pistonproblem but the 125 might also suggest leakage by the valves. Yourbest diagnostics here is a leakdown test. Send me e-mail if you needfuther info. on the leakdown test.

    Q: I am considering either 9.5:1 or 10.0:1 pistons. My purpose isto get the most power that I can without requiring higher than 93octane gas. Any comments on what kind of pistons to get and whereto obtain them are appreciated. As long as I won’t run intodetonation problems, I figure I might as well go with 10.0:1, right?Also, I figure that the new pistons should include the wrist pins. Are there likely to be any problems in fitting these to my existingrods?

    A: The new pistons will come fitted with new wrist pins and rings. I have always favored using the Hastings chrome-moly rings sets witha four-piece oil wiper ring. Most new pistons I’ve seen have beenfitted with Deves rings as OEM equip. I would not go with higherthan 9.3 or 9.5. You might need to mill the engine deck or headsurface which is going to raise your compression I think you’ll haveproblem running “ping free” on 94 octane. So unless you are readyto feed “octane booster” to your car, I would stay away from the10:1

    Q: In the 2002 FAQ it is stated that “When performing a total enginerebuild, ALWAYS balance the entire bottom end rotating assembly. This includes the pulleys, crank, rods, pistons, flywheel, andclutch assembly.” How is this done? I know it is important for thepistons and piston/rod assemblies to weigh the same, within somesmall tolerance, but how does one balance the whole assembly?

    A: Complete engine balancing is done by a machine shop with speciallathes and balancing equip (scales and strobes). Here in the Bostonarea lots of race engine builders and high perf. shops use LinskogEngineering in Boxboro, MA.). You leave them all rotating masscomponents (crank, rods, pistons, pins, flywheel, clutch assembly,crank pulley, etc).

    Q: It is also stated that “total seal piston rings (or other gaplessdesigns) work excellently on all piston applications, and are worththe extra money. Your motor will last longer, have less blowby, andmake more horsepower.” It sounds like these rings are a good idea. Do most parts houses carry them (i.e. Greenefield, Hendrick, BAS)? If not, where do I get them?

    A: I’ve always used Hastings rings with great success. You mighttry speaking with Marlboro Central Service in MArlboro, MA (near theMarlboro airport). The machinist I talked to there was Swartzy. Anyshop that does alot of BMW machine work will also know the specialtystuff — freezing in valve guides, using special guide seals,Hastings or Sealed Power ring sets, etc.

    Another machine shop that you might contact that has an excellentreputation in the Boston area is:

      Precision Machine and Balancing
      (don’t confuse with Precision Eng. Rebuilding)
      Ted Wingate
      Hudson, NH

    You seem to be on a tight schedule; I would not recommend rushing amachine shop for quick turn-around. Most of the “great” machineshops will have several weeks backlog. This is a busy season forracing, restorations, etc. You might want to consider a “donorblock” to use in the short term; that way you can take your time ondoing the “real” rebuild correctly.

    Jonathan

    —————————

    From: [email protected]
    Date: Mon, 29 Jul 96 09:24:14 EDT
    Subject: tii engine block

    >Is there a way to distinquish externally a tii engine block?

    The tii block has a fitting below where the oil filter housingmounts to the block. This fitting is for the oil return line. Thisis unique to the tii, but can easily be blocked off if you plan touse a tii block with a carburetor setup.

    Jonathan
    ’87 535is
    ’72 2002tii (undergoing restoration and 5-spd conversion.

    —————————

    From: [email protected]
    Date: Fri, 9 Aug 96 22:48:10 EDT
    Subject: oil pan gasket replacement

    So you have an oil leak on the front of your ’02.

    Removing the oil pan is a juuust-enoughhhhh-roooommmm scenario ifyou don’t jack up the motor. Loosen the driver’s side mount some ifyou want. If the oil pan is removed with the crankshaft (and moonand planets) correctly oriented, and you remove the oil pump anddrop it into the pan, it will happen. Replacing the gasket is fun,because you must take care not to knock it off as you put the panback in place. Hmmm, better lift the motor an inch or two anyway.

    It’s a good time to check the bearings and replace the oil pump ifit’s got many miles on it. Shim the oil pump as necessary. Youcan’t remove the oil pump chain (unless it has a master link), soshimming is your option.

    The front crank oil seal can be replaced in-car. Good luck gettingthe crank nut off. You need a long breaker bar, a 30-mm socket, anda 4×4 block of wood in the crankcase to keep the engine fromturning. Make sure you clean up any wood shavings afterwards. Thetiming cover leaks are no fun to fix.

    thi v.

    —————————

    From: Fred Dushin
    Date: Sat, 10 Aug 96 11:12:04 EDT
    Subject: oil pan and timing chain gasket replacement

    >>Is it possible to replace the oil pan gasket without hoisting the
    >>engine off the mounts? without dropping the subframe?
    >
    >You may be able to get away without using hoisting the engine off
    >the engine mounts but I’m not sure it if it’s worth the trouble or
    >if you will be successful. I removed my oil pan recently and
    >received some interesting solutions to this problem. The engine
    >needs to be raised to allow the oil pan to get past the oil pump.
    >If you don’t raise the engine you will need to remove all the bolts
    >on the oil pan, then reach in blindly and remove the bolts for the
    >oil pump.

    You might as well lift the engine off its mounts. You’re likely togo through a few gaskets if you don’t, since you’ll have to get itaround the oil pump, regardless.

    With a floor jack, support it by the tranny, unless you have anauxiliary component (a/c, eg) up front. You may want to do thelifting off the pan, though. The hardest part is getting the engineback on the mounts, especially on the passenger side. You’ll likelyneed four hands (get extra help refitting the gasket).

    Oh, make sure to remove the radiator, too, since you’ll want thefront clearance.

    >>”while I’m in there” is there anything else I should take the time
    >>to replace? oil pump? I’ll replace the timing cover oil seal if I
    >>end up in there.

    You might as well do the pump, if you have the money. Raising themotor is a sufficiently time consuming job that it may be worth itto do it now (depending on how many miles you have on it). Ifyou’re going to have the timing cover off, why not do both the oilpump chain and the timing chain? A new timing chain will reduceengine noise significantly.

    Fred Dushin
    WWW: http://web.syr.edu/~fadushin

    ============================

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    13.3.6: Fuel Pump, Lines, and Tank

    —————————

    From: Ware Adams
    Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 22:59:01 -0400
    Subject: 2002 electric fuel pump conversion

    >Also, in a 2002 factory service manual there is a section about
    >converting a standard ’02 from the mechanical to electric fuel pump.
    >This is a trunk mounted pump, not the tii one.

    From section 13 31 055 of the 2002 factory service manual (“Fittingof Electrical Fuel Pump”):

    Fit pump in correct position, but do not secure (verticalorientation between right rear wheel well and fuel filler neckinside trunk. Held to wheel well arch via a bracket.).

    Take floor panel out of luggage compartment.

    Drill fastening holes in the wheel arch column with a diameter of10.5 mm.

    ..stuff about connecting fuel lines omitted…

    Connect cable to the fuel pump and to the loom section under theinstrument panel on the left hand side. The picture shows astandard 2002 single wire connector, but the text implies you mustrun the wire from the instrument panel — you may want to check ifit is pre-installed. Anyway, it sounds like the suggestion thatpower comes from a wire under the dash is correct. The manual alsosays to refer to the wiring diagram which should be in the ownersmanual.

    Connect earth cable to the fuel pump and the car body.

    —————————

    From: Curtis A. Ingraham
    Subject: <02>tii fuel pump specs
    Date: 11 Jul 1996

    >Does any body know the flow rate or pressure rating for the electric
    >fuel pump fitted to a ’73 2002tii

    And William Boyd responded:

    >the pressure rating is 29 psi. (2 Atm. aprox.)

    Some additional specs from the Repair Manual are:

     Delivery Rate:  110 liter/hr (24.2 Imp_gal/hr, 29.0 US_gal/hr)
     Operating Voltage:  7 to 15 volt
     Operating Current:  4.7 amp at 12 volt
     Fuse:  8 amp

    The BMW part number is 16-12-1-107-414, and the BMW Price Book price is 375.00 (May 1996); it was 254.88 in the previous edition!(All prices are in U.S. dollars.)

    The Bosch generic part number is GFP-251. Some prices I got for this a few months ago were:

     255 BMW dealer
     255 Noble
     190 Bavarian AutoSport
     180 BMP
     165 German Auto Salvage, aka Wolf Sport
     160 Ultimate Source

    —————————

    From: “Steve D’Gerolamo”
    Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 10:06:07 -0400
    Subject: 2002tii Fuel Pumps

    Someone recently posted various mail order prices for a Bosch GFP251(0-580-364-002) fuel pump, some which were very competitive. Iwould suggest that anyone owning a tii and planning to keep itshould pick up one of these pumps if any of the mail order housesstill have it below $180.00. Current jobber price is $222.85, BoschWD’s pay approximately 28% below jobber [$160.45], and parts housesthat are not direct pay 15-20% below jobber [$189.42-$178.28]. Mailorder prices will rise to $200+ once old cost stock is depleted. SD

    Steve D’Gerolamo, c/o The Parts Co-op, 201-262-0412

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Fred Beck)
    Date: Thu, 30 Mar 95 12:43:08 PST
    Subject: 2002tii Gas Tank Replacement

    2002tii Gas Tank Replacement: I used a closed cell foamweatherstripping (made for exterior use) from the local hardwarestore when I replaced my ’73 tii tank. The replacement tank Ibought (original BMW, new) was slightly higher than the original,resulting in bowing of the wood cover panel when I put it back on.The original tank was flatter on top, the new tank slightly roundedon top and higher where the fuel pickup sits. I requested adifferent tank from my shop, and got one which was a slightly betterfit. Now I can at least screw down the cover, still a bit ofbulging.

    –Fred
    ’73 2002tii

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (jon wolfson)
    Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 11:28:42 -0500
    Subject: Turbo gas tank

    I replaced my regular ’72 tii tank with a turbo tank. It wasnothing to do the job, and was an unquestionable joy having a thirdmore gas on board, not having to stop so often to fill up. Itdoesn’t take up that much more space in your trunk, and there is aneasy mod you can do to keep the trunk cover bolted down. Also thinkabout getting a turbo gas guage, as the regular gauge will showempty when you still have about a third of a tank left.

    ============================

    Back to top

    13.3.7: Carburetors, Manifolds, Air Cleaners

    —————————

    From: Dave Kellington
    Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 12:27:30 -0800 (PST)
    Subject: Weber 32/36DGV Jets

    >I’ve got an old, tired probably bone-stock ’76 2002. When I got it,
    >it had a pile of problems; now it’s down to just a couple. The
    >pressing issue at the moment is that the car is just falling flat
    >around 3500-4000 RPM. It *IMMEDIATELY* gets better after 4000 RPM,
    >and isn’t always bad in the mid-3k range, but usually is. I’m
    >betting it’s mis-jetted, especially since all the ignition stuff is
    >new and correct, and I just rebuilt the carb (and yes, I *do* know
    >how to rebuild a carb, having done a couple zillion 40IDA3Cs).
    >So, what’s the hot setup, jet-wise?

    I’ve been running the jetting below since it appeared in a letter inthe September 1984 _Roundel_. The numbers are PRIMARY/SECONDARY.

    CONFIGURATION MAIN JETS EMULSION TUBES AIR JETS IDLE JETS ———————————————————————- STOCK 140/135 F50/F6 165/160 55/60 ROUNDEL 150/165 F8/F8 165/170 —– 

    I’m using 60/60 idle jets. I haven’t touched it in 12 years!

    Dave
    ’73 2002

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (marilyn, dan, phillip patzer)
    Date: Sun, 18 Aug 1996 17:08:34 -0800
    Subject: Weber side-drafts

    Please be careful with this installation. Get some experiencedhelp. One of the best 2002 buys I’ve had was because of a Weber 40DCOE “stack-fire” which damaged the main wiring bundle coming up thefender toward the fuse-box. The insurance company “totalled thecar”. I picked it up for peanuts and popped-in a wiring harness. Good luck, they’re a lot of fun if done properly.

    Dan Patzer
    BMWACA Puget Sound Chapter

    —————————

    From: [email protected]
    Date: Sun, 18 Aug 1996 20:14:51 -0400
    Subject: Dual Side Drafts

    After setting up a set of Mikunis (similar to Webers) on a 2002, Isay go for it! Don’t listen to people who say its a pain to setupor run. Sidedrafts sound better and give more power, esp. with acam that has high lift & duration.

    Take It Easy
    [email protected]

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Terry Donohue)
    Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:25:24 -0600
    Subject: Sidedraft Manifold

    >The experienced heads at the engine shop that is doing the work
    >think that the stock ti manifold (about 2″ long) is too short to
    >extract best torque from this engine, and that a manifold 3″ or 4″
    >long would be better. Does anyone know of such a manifold? Who
    >made/makes it, and where can we get it?
    >I wonder if velocity stacks before the carbs would provide a similar
    >effect?

    All the intake manifolds on ti’s (including aftermarket as well asthe rare Alpina multiple butterfly manifold for the tii) are aboutthe same length — pretty short for minimal flow restriction. Atfull throttle, the length of the manifold is not important; it’s thetotal length from the intake valve to the beginning of the inductionsystem, or the end of the velocity stack. Weber makes a variety ofvelocity stacks in various lengths. Road racers tend to use theshortest possible; I use an intermediate length of about 45 mm (mytorque peak is at about 5400 RPM); and long ones (70 mm or so) areavailable, if you can find the space to install them, and want toenhance your low end torque. There is a simple formula forcalculating the resonant RPM for a given pipe length, but I don’thave it at my fingertips.

    Terry Donohue   [email protected]’71 2002Ti   ’90 Audi 200TQ   ’95 M3

    —————————

    From: [email protected]
    Date: Wed, 10 Jul 96 15:47:01 PST
    Subject: Sidedraft Intake Manifolds

    >Does anyone know of such a manifold? Who made/makes it, and where
    >can we get it?

    Try: TWM — 805.967.9478
    Advanced Engineering Management — 310.327.9336

    With these two companies we put together the multiple butterflyintakes on my 2002tii using side draft intake manifolds. Theyshould have something that works.

    Brian Foster

    —————————

    From: Hood-Douda Mike Hood-Douda
    Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 20:12:33 -0700 (PDT)
    Subject: 2000CS Solex 40PHH sidedrafts

    >I think that my old dual Solex 40PHH sidedraft carburetors are
    >drawing too much air in through their throttle butterfly shafts. I
    >can perceptably wiggle the shafts in their bronze(?) bushings. They
    >still work really well at full throttle but not so well at low to
    >medium. They don’t seem suitable for the old teflon-washers-on-
    >the-shaft trick.

    Here’s some previous responses to my Solex 40PHH questions (for 1600ti).

    >Regarding your Solex 40 PHH carbs: Solex 40 PHH carbs as you have
    >noticed have bushings instead of bearings on the throttle shafts.
    >You might want to measure the shafts and place a call to Schley
    >Products Inc, Anaheim, California, (714) 693-7666. In their catalog
    >they have a bushing repair kits for Solex carbs that include the
    >required tools and new bushings. As you will have to remove the
    >throttle plate screws to do this, you might want to make sure that
    >you can find replacement screws first.

    and

    >You might also want to check to make sure that your throttle shafts
    >aren’t worn along with the bushings. There’s a place in Dallas, TX
    >that specializes in the Solex 44PHH carbs found on the MB 190SL.
    >It’s S&S Imports at 214-521-8875 or 214-826-5977.

    I gave up and got a pair of Weber 40 DCOEs for our 1600ti.

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Curtis A. Ingraham)
    Date: Sun, 15 Sep 1996 12:49:20 -0700
    Subject: Sidedraft “sock” air filter

    >Hi, I have a converted 2002ti with dual Webers with K&N filters.
    >This setup works well except when the engine torques and the filters
    >are smashed against the vacuum booster. I know at one point there
    >were velocity stacks that were angled at 45 deg. upward. Does
    >anyone know where I could find a set?

    and Ware Adams answered:

    >Alternatively, I’ve seen air filters that are black foam “socks”
    >that fit over the carb throats. This would solve your problem.

    I just noticed these sock air filters in the catalog of:

    Top End Performance North Hollywood, California 818 764-6768 (Monday to Friday, 8 am to 5:30 pm)

    —————————

    From: Oleg Perelet
    Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 02:35:48 -0500 (CDT)
    Subject: Sidedraft sock air filter

    You can get ‘sock’ type of filters from many hi-po VW places formuch less. BTW, you can get decent big DCOE filters from TWM.

    Oleg.
    E30M3&02’s

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (olav berthold)
    Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 04:35:39 -0400
    Subject: Fuel economy with non-stock carbs

    How is fuel economy influenced by running non-stock carbs on a 2002?What are preferred carb set-ups ? Any experience with double-carbson a 2002A?

    Here in Germany we are currently paying 1.7 Deutschmarks for a literof leaded premium gas (which should be equal to about 4.3 US-$ pergal. (1 gal. = 3.785 l). So fuel economy is of some importance.

    Here in Germany, talking about double carbs for 02s usually meansthe stock 2002 ti set-up. Not so much Webers are around. The Solexcarbs have the reputation to be often crappy because of wornbearings. Fuel economy is said to drop from 21.5 mpg stock (my 02uses definitely more gas with a single carb) to about 15 mpg (atleast with Solexes)!

    Olav
    (with a single-carb ’74 2002 targa and thinking about double-carbs…)

    —————————

    From: [email protected]
    Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 22:48:28 -0400
    Subject: Fuel Economy with Weber Carbs

    A few digests back the question was asked about modified 02’s andgas mileage. I been running 45 DCOE’s on my 2002 for 18 years. Granted I’ve got them tuned just to my tastes and have a very goodlinkage and manifold setup, but they have NEVER stranded me and havegotten over 20 MPG under almost all conditions. I’ve gotten 29 [email protected] 70 MPH on trips and get 23-25 with a 50-50 mix of town and hiway. I get about 16 MPG at the track. The car was a daily driver until 3years ago; it’s got 390,000 miles on it. Yes, it’s been rebuilt acouple of times, each time with new tricks I’ve learned. There isnothing better for a normally aspirated motor, IMHO. They can be abit trick at first but are not the unreliable monsters some make ofthem.

    The basic spec for my setup is: 45 DCOE / 36-mm venturis / F9emulsion tubes with 125/195 main/air jetting / 50F8 idle jets / 40pump jets / BMW manifolds bored to 45-mm / custom cable linkage /Allison (now Crane) electronic ignition / E12 head with minorporting, stcok chambers, 9.5 pistons and a Schrick 290 cam (ahardface copy of a Big Six cam) / Tii exhaust manifold / OD 5-speedwith 4.11:1 limited slip.

    It passes Washington State emissions testing without any trouble. Atidle the results are 518 ppm HC (900 limit), 4.6% CO (6.0%); underload it drops WAY down to 045 ppm HC and 1.8% CO. The standards arethe same until 1974 cars. Later cars have tougher standards, andthe idle standard gets harder to meet.

    Greg Mierz
    [email protected]
    Roster Manager, BMWACA Puget Sound
    Editor, MTecnic Zundfolge
    1969 2002Ti (MPOWER) now with 390,000 miles

    —————————

    From: [email protected]
    Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 12:18:41 -0400
    Subject: Oil Vapor Collection Tank

    >There was a posting a while back (or was it in _european car_?)
    >about a neat way of adding a oil vapor collection tank in place of
    >routing the valve cover hose back to the carbs. The article/posting
    >also described adding a hose to the vent on the transmission for the
    >same purpose.

    When I converted my 320iS engine from fuel injection to sidedraftWebers, I attached a used Techron bottle with zip ties to one of theengine compartment fender well brackets (I think it was one that wasused for part of the air flow meter). I then ran a hose from thevalve cover vent to the bottle and clamped both ends. I check thebottle every few months and empty whatever collects. Make sure youdrill some small holes near the top of the bottle for pressurerelief. Also, if you sand and paint the bottle black, it looksbetter in the engine compartment.

    I’d like to find a way to route the hose back into the carburetorintakes, but haven’t figured out a way to do this with dualsidedraft carbs.

    Bob Stommel

    —————————

    From: “Matt R. Brumwell”
    Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 11:50:58 -0500
    Subject: Oil venting containers

    >Mike asked about crankcase and tranny venting on a 2002.

    I have DCOE’s on my car also and had the same problem. I ran thebreather hose over to the driver’s side firewall where the emissionrelay junk use to be. On the firewall, using a carefully bent coathanger as a bracket, I have a plastic Peter Pan Peanut Butter jar(18 oz I think). I found a rubber 90 deg elbow in the Help! displayat the local Auto Value. One end is a male end that fits inside thebreather hose. The other end is female and has a grove molded intoit to it will hold itself in place when pushed through a hole in theplactic jar. On the inside of the jar I have a K & N stubby filter. This filter has a male end on it which connects to the elbow. Around the top of the jar I drilled a series of 1/8″ holes to allowair to escape. I use a large wire tie to hold the jar in thebracket firmly. My theory is that the oil vapor will condense inthe filter element and drip into the bottom of the jar. The ‘clean’air goes through the holes in the top of the jar. After 600 milesthere is a little oil in the bottom of the jar, and no oil on theoutside lid of the jar. Seems to work for me.

    The transmission venting article was in the August 1994 issue of_European Car_, just happened to be on the top of the stack on thework bench :). The gist of the article is this. If the vent getsplugged, the tranny does its breathing throught the seals. Not goodsince it can suck dirt in during cool down. The vent plug(according to EC) can be pulled out from the top with vise grips,making sure the area around it is clean. My tranny was out so thiswas easy. Once it’s out, put it in a vise. If you are runningWebers and still have your old intake manifold, you should be ableto find a threaded nipple that will work. If not, go back to AutoValue’s selection of brass nipples. Drill a hole in the vent plugand then tap threads in it to match the nipple. File the top of theplug flat so there is a good mating surface between the plug and thenipple. A copper washer is needed if you use the manifold nipple.Put teflon tape or other sealer on the threads and screw the twotogether.

    I used blue brake hose and ran it up to its own catch bottle next tothe crankcase bottle. In theory the same bottle can be used forboth, but the bottle would have to be large enough for both to comein independently. I though about putting a T in the crankcasebreather hose, but decided I didn’t want motor oil in the tranny andvice versa. Anyway, the bottle arrangement is similiar, using abrass elbow and I think a small fuel filter inside the bottle. Thejar itself is a small jar designed to hang on a peg board.

    I also put a overflow bottle in for the radiator. I used acommercial $12 kit and installed it where the battery use to be.

    matt brumwell
    smoky mountain chapter ‘cca
    ’75 2002
    ’87 535is
    ’88 M3

    —————————

    From: Filippo Morelli
    Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 14:39:10 -0700 (PDT)
    Subject: Oil venting containers

    >crankcase and tranny venting on a 2002.

    The best setup I’ve seen is a bicycle water bottle and water bottlebracket. They come in a variety of color/size/configurations, arecheap, and easy to install. One can run a 3/8-5/16 type hose from thebreather boss on the valve cover to the water bottle nozzle. Plug ahold in the top of the bottle and bingo. Nice looking, cheap, easyto remove and clean setup.

    My 2.3-l stroker with DCOE’s spewed a good bit of oil, but the Stage II Korman 2.0-l with DCOE’s did not – I ran a K&N breather on that valve cover breather boss with very little oil residue resulting on the head.YMMV

    —————————

    From: Hood-Douda Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 19:03:35 -0700 (PDT)Subject: Valve Cover Venting Solution

    Thanks to all for their ideas and inputs. It is very apparent thatthere are a lot of creative individuals on this list. Here’s what Iended up with:

    I obtained a used VDO brand windshield washer solution bottle andmounting bracket from our one and only former BMW CCA Greater OregonChapter President (when we had a Greater Oregon Chapter) DavidLumbra of 2002 Restorations in Eugene, Oregon. Thanks David!

    I mounted the bracket on the driver’s side fender wall near thefirewall. The bottle was drilled and tapped to accept theappropriate sized brass nipple. The old valve cover hose wasre-used to run between the valve cover and bottle. I loosely filledthe bottle with cheesecloth to act as a filter/condensation media. Since the bottle came without the cap, I didn’t have to drilladditional holes for pressure relief. It works! Total cost: free.

    Again thanks for all the ideas.

    Mike

    ============================

    Back to top

    13.3.8: Fuel Injection

    —————————

    From: “K.K. Wollenberg”
    Date: Sun, 14 Jul 1996 09:08:03 -0700
    Subject: tii stalling problems

    >The engine dies somewhere in the 4-5k RPM range, with the power
    >available and RPM reached decreasing as the car warms up. The
    >severity of the problem increases as the environmental temperature
    >increases. When the car and outdoor temperature are cool in the
    >morning, the car can be run to 5 or 6k smoothly with good power. As
    >the day goes on the performance goes to hell, especially on hotter
    >days. When the car is warm it is difficult to get off the line
    >without revving to high rpm, or the engine will likely die. It is
    >now getting very difficult to start, but was starting fine up until
    >recently. The more weight in the car, the less speed I can achieve
    >when it is acting up. I could only get to 50 mph pulling a small
    >boat with another passenger. Under normal circumstances, the car
    >could pull this load to excess of 65-70 mph with little effort.

    There are several things to check:

    1. Since the car was recently tuned, check your dwell/point gap. Ifthey have slipped, it could cause the symptoms you describe2. If this is not it, check to see if the fuel filter was installedupside down (the silver one by the battery)3. Your fuel pump may be getting weak. Check your fuel deliverypressure. If you need one, I know Carl Nelson at CNPR has some onthe shelf. Call him at 1-800-466-8184.4. Check the fine mesh screen at the bottom of the tube whichcontains the fuel pickup. This can get blocked by sediment in yourtank and cause problems.

    Keith Wollenberg
    ’72 tii Touring

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Bavarian Motor Warehouse)
    Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 15:01:20 -0500
    Subject: tii rough running

    >I’ve been having trouble with my tii for a while now. Its been
    >runing really rough, and the idle drifts up when the engine is cold.
    >I replaced the cap and rotor, plugs and wires and this had no
    >effect, but I was going to replace them anyway. I sprayed water
    >around the plastic manifold tubes on someone’s suggestion to test
    >for air leaks, but there was no idle change. I also checked the
    >linkage, and that was not the source of the idle problem. Could the
    >rough running be from poor timing, or are these two problems
    >related, and/or (please no) is it something wrong with my
    >Kugelfischer?

    What a can of worms. Have you checked timing? Have you checkedvalve clearances? Have you checked condensor and points? You sayyou checked the linkage, but what did you check? Adjusting linkagescauses lots of problems with tii’s. If the car was running finebefore someone fiddled w/ the linkages, that might be where to look.Setting them is easy, as all you are doing is adjusting them to apredetermined length on a jig and synchronizing the whole deal.Adjusting idle with the two set screws causes the majority ofproblems, as you really need to take CO and HC readings whileworking. Often the throttle housing or shaft bushing/bearings areworn causing the butterfly not to close all the way or causing anair leak. Pump pressure is another thing to check as well as thethree (that’s right, 3) different filters and screens along the fuelpath after the pickup. Must be a FAQ on this, I would think; themanual is fairly clear and there was also a training video andbooklet published by BMW that at one time was available reprinted. Ithink Metric Mechanic might have had their own version.

    Phil Marx (*=00=*) BMWCCA #6021
    Bavarian Motor Warehouse, Inc.
    (804) 293-8269
    fax (804) 293-0817
    416 W. Main St.
    Charlottesville, VA. 22903
    Check out our Web page: http://www.comet.chv.va.us/bav/
    See the M635CSi and a few other lovely 2 & 4 wheel BMWs

    —————————

    From: ben thongsai
    Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 12:15:20 -0500 (CDT)
    Subject: 2002tii Hesitation

    >I just bought a beautiful ’73 tii a week ago, and I’m already having
    >problems. The car is hesitating under acceleration in a big way.
    >Yesterday it became pretty much undriveable. So, I took it in to
    >the shop today (my repair manual hasn’t come yet) and they seem to
    >just be befuddled. Maybe someone here can help. The engine hasn’t
    >been rebuilt, and I don’t have repair records, so many expensive
    >tests have been run. First, the fuel pressure was checked, and it
    >came out on the low end of OK. Then, compression, which also came
    >out fine. Vacuum is also all right. Timing is fine as well. The
    >only things that they have figured out is that the engine is running
    >very rich, and the #2 sparkplug was fouled with oil.

    >Now they want to run some kind of injector cleaner through the
    >injection system, which they will be happy to charge me $100. It
    >sounds to me like they’re just grasping, and I’d rather not spend a
    >c-note on someone else’s desperation. Anyone have clues? The
    >hesitation is very marked, and only occurs under acceleration.
    >That’s about it for characteristics. It happens when the engine’s
    >hot or cold, going fast or slow.

    This sounds like you have a severe mixture problem. Since it’sdoing it both hot and cold, I suspect that the linkage that goes tothe injection pump from the throttle pivot rod either popped off, orbroke off the plastic end link. Look between the injection pump andthe engine, and check to see if the linkage is still in one pieceand operational.

    If that’s okay, check the rest of the linkage. The rod that goes upto the throttle housing is 2 pieces — check that they’re tightlyclamped together.

    >Now they want to run some kind of injector cleaner through the
    >injection system, for which they will be happy to charge me $100.
    >It sounds to me like they’re just grasping, and I’d rather not spend a
    >c-note on someone else’s desperation.

    Injector cleaner shouldn’t make any difference on a tii. Withinjection pressures in the 400-500 psi range, there isn’t much of anopportunity for crud to deposit in the injection system. Soundslike the shop doesn’t have any tii experience.

    >Anyone have clues? The hesitation is very marked, and only occurs
    >under acceleration. That’s about it for characteristics. It
    >happens when the engine’s hot or cold, going fast or slow.

    Does it run smoothly at a constant speed? Are they sure it’srunning rich? If it runs okay at a constant speed, and is notrunning really rich, the filter and screens may be plugging up. Check to see that the electric fuel pump is pumping sufficientvolume.

    —————————

    From: Ware Adams
    Date: Wed, 18 Sep 96 00:42:29 -0500
    Subject: Re: 2002tii question

    >Ok- I just bought a beautiful ’73 tii a week ago, and I’m already
    >having problems. The car is hesitating under acceleration in a big
    >way. Yesterday it became pretty much undriveable. So, I took it in
    >to the shop

    My ’74 behaved this way when I first bought it. Before you get intoany actual repair work make sure you hit all the key tii tune upbits (well covered in a _European Car_ issue of a couple of yearsago):

    1) Clean all 4 fuel filters
    2) Change points, plugs, condensor, set timing
    3) Tune the injection using a factory manual or have someone whoknows what they are doing do it (e.g. set idle speed and mixture theproper way). It is absolutely vital to set these things upcorrectly — you need the proper tools, and the injection linkagemust be in good shape (call Maximillian at 800-950-2002 if you neednew parts), and the adjustments must all be spot on. The bestsource for all of this is the BMW NA Kugelfischer manual that youcan get from the tii registry which is listed on the back of theRoundel.

    If you don’t do all of this, it isn’t worth the effort to doanything else. Many and/or most tii problems can be solved by doingthe above. I’m convinced I saved a $1,000 off the price of my ’74because the original owner hadn’t done this and thought the carwould never run right.

    Good luck,
    Ware
    ’72 & ’74 2002tii

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Bavarian Motor Warehouse)
    Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 17:37:47 -0400
    Subject: Injection Pump Drive Belt Replacement

    >When installing a new fuel injection pump toothed drive belt, should
    >the cogs of the Kugelfischer drive pulley be greased, or should the
    >belt be installed dry? If it needs to be greased, what type is
    >recommended?

    Dry!

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Curtis A. Ingraham)
    Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 13:48:53 -0700
    Subject: tii throttle linkage parts

    >Does anyone have any good sources for throttle linkage parts for
    >my 74 tii?

    Try: Maximillian Importing Co.
    Max Conover
    606 Maiden Choice Lane
    Baltimore, MD 21228 USA
    800 950-2002
    410 744-2697

    Many individual parts are available, and a complete set is about US$ 230 as I recall.

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Bavarian Motor Warehouse)
    Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 17:37:47 -0400
    Subject: tii injection history

    >Does anyone know when the Kugelfischer pump was first used on a BMW?
    >The reason I ask is that almost all of my engine parts are stamped
    >”72″ (for the 1973 model year build), but the fuel injection belt
    >dust covers are both stamped “69” (for 1969). I thought that the
    >euro tii started in the 1971 model year, and the US-spec tii’s were
    >built for the 1972-74 model year. Was there something like a 1970
    >2000tii, or was the factory just getting an early start on
    >production of parts for building the ’71 tii in 1970? (Or maybe I
    >have a really rare prototype dust cover.

    The first 2000tii’s were produced in 12/69, so it’s possible there’sa large supply of those plastic covers made in advance that werestill being used for the limited production 2002tii’s even by ’72. Haven’t checked the date on mine though … Nope, just ran back tothe garage and checked on the ’72 which was stolen from me about 14years ago and is in a state of “repose”. It’s upper cover is datestamped “69”, and I know it’s the original piece. That should be agood enough answer.

    Phil Marx BMWCCA #6021

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    13.3.9: Lubrication

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Curtis A. Ingraham)
    Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 10:47:39 -0700
    Subject: Oil Pressure

    >I … put an oil pressure gauge on my “new” motor. When the car
    >is cold, I have a ton of oil pressure (the slightest touch on the
    >gas sends the gauge flying), about 20-30 psi at idle, but when
    >the car warms up, I get no more than 20 psi at idle (sometimes
    >the idiot light comes on), and the maximum is about 30 psi (even
    >at 7000 rpm!). Is this normal? Brand new oil pump, Mann oil
    >filter, using 20w-50 oil … [’73 2002tii].

    The BMW Repair Manual says the oil pressure idiot light switch should close when the pressure drops below:


    0.2 – 0.5 bar (2.8 – 7.1 psi).The oil pump pressure specs are: Idle: 0.8 – 1.2 bar (11.4 – 17.1 psi) 0.5 – 1.5 bar ( 7.1 – 21.4 psi) “Gear type oil pump” 4000 RPM: approx 4.0 bar ( 57 psi )

    Something is not normal. You should consider the possibility thatyour gauge is inaccurate. Your oil pressure switch could also be faulty, although it’s common for the light to flicker at _low_ idle when the engine is hot. Can you try a different pressure gauge?If your present gauge is accurate, then you do have a problem.

    —————————

    From: [email protected]
    Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 23:18:28 -0400
    Subject: Low Oil Pressure Solved

    I found the problem — it was the banjo bolt. [See Section 13.3.3.]

    Dan Chapman ([email protected])

    —————————
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    13.3.10: Cooling

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Thi VanAusdal)
    Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 20:28:55 -0700
    Subject: Overheating

    >Should I have the radiator checked first, then change the pump? At
    >the same time, since the radiator will be out of the car, should I
    >do some other stuff up front? Timing chain? Gaskets? Tighten stuff
    >up? Are there any things I should be wary of while I’m doing this?
    >Could I consider putting a used 320i water pump on?

    Radiators in my experience do not fail catastrophically except byphysical contusion (read: bird, rock, small appliances enter theradiator to cause a leak). Loss of cooling capacity is a gradualthing, like the spare tire I have around my stomach. (It’s aDunlop, as in my guts Dunlop’d over my belt buckle. 😛 )

    Water pump failure is more likely here (you *do* have a leak you said). If the drip/leak is from the front of the motor somewhere, itis a 90% likelihood that’s your pump. Hose failures are more of the rupture-spraysteameverywhere variety.

    A 320i water pump would require the use of a 320i pulley for thepump, as its nose sticks out about one inch more to clear the fanpast the crank pulley on 320i’s. Which, on a 2002, would put thepump in the radiator core. That is a Bad Thing. 🙁

    Thi VanAusdal
    ’77 320i
    ’87 325i (project)
    ’87 325is (dad’s)

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Stanley Phan)
    Date: Sun, 19 Mar 1995 10:29:18 -0800 (PST)
    Subject: 2002 Radiator Upgrade

    This month’s _Roundel_ (the 02 column) has an article on a 2002radiator upgrade. The article lists the part number for a 3-rowcore replacement.

    I’ve replaced the stock radiator on my 02 with the 320i aluminumunit. It’s hard to say whether there is any improvement in cooling.Also a big draw back is that aluminum fins on the radiator are**very** soft and therefore get damaged very easily. This does causeproblems everytime I work around the engine…I always have to becautious of those fins.

    If I were to replace my radiator again, I would definitely go with abetter recore unit. This route has several advantages. Cheaper,keeps the car stock looking, and makes R/R of the radiator (i.e.water pump replacements) ***much*** easier.

    -Stanley Phan
    ’72 2002

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    13.4: Suspension & Steering

    ============================

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    13.4.1: Steering failure

    —————————

    From: “Yurko Joseph”
    Date: 14 Jun 1995 12:05:26 U

    I recently had the misfortune of having the steering fail on my ‘762002A. Fortunately this happened when I was moving very slowly whilemaneuvering into a tight parking spot which required a large amountof force to turn the steering wheel. I suspect that this failurecould also have occurred during a drivers school or autocross wherethe stresses on the steering components are higher than would beseen during normal driving.

    Upon inspecting the car, I discovered that the rubber couplingwhich connects the steering gear box to the steering column hadfailed. This failure rendered the steering wheel completelyuseless! I strongly recommend that all 2002 owners (and others)inspect their cars and replace the coupling if there is ANY sign ofdeterioration. The parts cost approximately $20 and are notdifficult to replace. The microfiche shows two parts for thecoupling: one is a rubber disk with four mounting holes, and theother is a small, weak spring whose function is not obvious (doesanybody know what the spring does ?) My car had both parts.

    To install the new parts:
    1. Do not remove any parts from the steering column in the carinterior.
    2. Do not loosten or remove the steering box.
    3. Remove the four nuts securing the coupling.
    4. Loosten the nut securing the splined flange to the steeringcolumn and slide the flange towards the steering wheel. Note theorientation of the flange to the shaft so you can reorient theflange properly during reassembly.
    5. Remove the old rubber coupling and spring.
    6. Install the new parts and reverse the disassembly procedure, being sure to orient the flange properly to the steering columnshaft.
    7. Check to make sure you tightened everything you loosened.
    8. You are done.

    —————————

    From: Oleg Perelet
    Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 22:34:23 -0500 (CDT)
    Subject: Suspension Bushings

    To disconnect tie rod ends use screw type pusher; don’t knock themwith a hammer.

    About suspension bushings: it is best to replace them all. Thecomplete set of bushings, tie rod assemblies, control arms, andballjoints is less than US$200. All can be replaced with suspensionin car, but it’s much simpler to take subframe out and do all workon the floor (also good chance to sandblast/paint subframe andreplace idler arm bushings, blue ones, etc).

    OlegE30M3 & 02s

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    13.4.2: Anti-roll (sway) Bars

    —————————

    From: ben thongsai
    Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 12:03:21 -0500 (CDT)
    Subject: Re: ’02/tii springs

    >I have spare ’74 tii springs and swaybars and wondered if they’re
    >any bigger/stiffer than the stock pieces on my ’75.

    The sway bars are the same, at I think 15 mm front and 16 mm rear.Not very useful with anything larger than the stock 165-13 tires.

    Ben

    —————————

    From: “Rick Kjeldsen”
    Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 12:02:23 -0400
    Subject: Sway bar noise

    >Anyone have any suggestions for getting rid of aftermarket sway bar
    >noise? It’s not a squeeking noise, it’s a clunk clunk over
    >small bumps – >annoying.

    I assume your bars came with Heim (sp?) joints (that is, ball andsocket assemblies) to replace the sway bar end links, and probablyurethane center bushings. I have that setup on my car — it’s verycommon. What I’ve found is that the noise comes from the balljoints. When the suspension load changes from one wheel beingcompressed to the other being compressd, the load on the barreverses, so the direction of stress on the ball joints changes froma push to a pull (or vice versa), so the small amount of playbetween the ball and socket causes a click. The hard centerbushings then transmit this click very effectively to the body.

    Greasing the ball joint helps for a (short) time, as it takes up thespace. Greasing the urethane bushings helps for a (shorter) time,because it keeps the sound from being transmitted as well.

    You can also replace the urethane bushings with rubber at some minorperformance loss. Dinan does this.

    I think it may help to replace the ball joints with higher qualityones that have a teflon(?) liner between the ball and socket.

    rick
    ’87 325es – click, click, click…

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Curtis A. Ingraham)
    Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 13:41:47 -0700
    Subject: ST 22/19 bars on tii

    I said earlier:
    >… the front center section of a Suspension Techniques 22-mm
    >front antiroll bar hits other parts on a ’72 tii … Should
    >the front section be higher or lower than the front bushings?

    Thanks to Fred Beck, German Auto Salvage, Mike Hood-Douda, GerryO’Conner, and Oleg Perelet who all said 1) the front section of thebar should be LOWER than the bushings; 2) it is common for the barto rub on the front apron; and 3) the cure, if needed, is to bendthe front apron a bit forward.

    The help here on the bmw-digest is really great. The STinstallation instructions are incomplete and poorly written, and theST tech support person didn’t have any answers.

    ============================

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    13.4.3: Shock Absorbers

    —————————

    From: Oleg Perelet
    Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 17:18:30 -0500 (CDT)
    Subject: <02> shock absorbers

    KYB IMHO are bad; they are hard, rust fast, etc. If Bilsteins aretoo pricy, get Boge — nice and affordable.

    Oleg.
    E30M3&02’s

    ============================

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    13.4.4: Front Struts

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Fred Beck)
    Date: Mon, 10 Jul 95 12:23:30 PDT
    Subject: Re: 2002 strut spacers or not?

    >What’s the general feeling on the use of the aluminium strut
    >spacers? I’ve heard both that preformance was increased and
    >decreased when these were removed. The owner before me removed them
    >and put them up top where the strut bearing nuts hold the bearing to
    >the car. Any reason for this?

    The strut spacers were added to US-spec 2002’s so that the frontbumper would meet the US bumper-height criteria. Removing themreturns the height to Euro-spec. Regarding performance, I have runmy car both with and without them, and have not noticed muchdifference either way (I was not using my car on the track at thetime, though). The reason I had them in is that I had 320i wheelswith the wrong offset, so they would rub without the spacers in. When removed, the spacers are generally put on top due to the lengthof the three strut mounting studs, so that you dont have to screwthe nut down 1″ on the stud before it is tight. This problem can bealleviated by going to 320i strut bearings/bushings (which areidentical to the 2002 except for the stud length), or by removingthe longer 2002 studs and pressing in the shorter 320i studs.

    A while back Ben Thongsai told me that “lowering the front of a 2002will lower the roll center faster than the center of gravity. Whichmeans that all else being equal, a lowered car will roll more thanone that is not.” I think the key here is that if your swaybars/springs do the job of controlling body roll, then lowering thecenter of gravity of the car will improve its handling. I aminterested to hear if others on the list have comments about theeffects of the lowering/roll center/center of gravity interplay.

    –Fred ’73 2002tii

    —————————

    From: “Steve D’Gerolamo”
    Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 09:17:44 -0400
    Subject: Strut Bearing Assemblies — 2002 & 320i

    There are different strut bearing assemblies for 2002(31-33-1-112-644) and 320i (31-33-1-110-195), although the two arebasically interchangeable. Price wise, the 320i unit is cheaper at$74.00 list vs $122.00 list for the 2002 unit (I think the 2002piece came down with the June price tape…don’t know about he Julytape yet). The subtle differences between the 2 parts is the lengthof the studs (the 2002 assemblies had the longer studs toaccomodate the headlight height aluminum spacers that have surelybeen removed by now). It also appears that the grey dust cap forthe 2002 (31-33-1-110-540) will not fit on the 320i assembly.

    Regardless of which assembly you use, try to purchase one of the newstyle units with the “sealed bearing”. These work a littlesmoother, and you will avoid the problem of dirt getting into thegrease of the open bearing assembly. SD

    Steve D’Gerolamo, c/o The Parts Co-op, 201-262-0412

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    13.4.5: Springs

    —————————

    From: ben thongsai
    Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 12:03:21 -0500 (CDT)
    Subject: Re: ’02/tii springs

    >I have spare ’74 tii springs and swaybars and wondered if they’re
    >any bigger/stiffer than the stock pieces on my ’75.

    As far as springs go, they are technically the same. However, BMWhad three levels of spring rates for the 2002, all with the samepart no. (I guess it was to allow for production tolerances orsomething). The rate is denoted by the paint stripe on the side ofthe spring. Green is stiffest, white is medium, and red is softest,if I remember correctly. Typically, the tiis will come with thegreen stripe springs, and the standard ’02s with white or red, butthat isn’t certain.

    Basically, the stock springs are the same between the standard ’02and tii, although the tii springs can sometimes be a shade stiffer(something on the order of 30 or so lbs/in). Worth swapping? Probably not, unless your old ones are sagging.

    Ben

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    13.4.6: Steering Wheel

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Bavarian Motor Warehouse)
    Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 09:16:31 -0400
    Subject: 320i steering wheel size

    >Can someone tell me what the size of a 320i steering wheel is?

    >>I measured this just the other day. The outside diameter is
    >>15 +/- 0.2 inch.

    Stock 2002 is ~16″ (O.D.), turbo uses ~15″, and my 2.3 2002 uses 13.75″with the quick ratio steering box.

    -Phil Marx BMWCCA #6024

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Curtis A. Ingraham)
    Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 09:10:53 -0700
    Subject: 320is Steering Wheel on <02>

    >I recently bought a 320is steerings wheel to put on my 74 2002.
    >Everything seems to match except the horn connection. Does someone
    >have some hints or a solution based on past experience with this
    >setup?

    The 2002 has the spring-loaded carbon brush on the wheel and thecircular brass contact ring on the column. The 320i setup is theopposite. You can solve this by removing the 2002 contact ring andits plastic holder from the steering column. Then install a longcarbon brush assembly (from 320i as I recall) on the frame whichholds the turn signal and wiper switches. It will fit at bottomcenter after you do some filing there. Also, it is too short, soyou will need to install it with a pair of spacers about 0.25 incheslong between it and the frame, so that its base is farther away fromthe floor (toward the steering wheel). The assembly is about 1.6inches long overall, of which the brush is about 0.5 inch. Thefiling required is a semicircular notch in the lower housing at thecenter of the bottom of the original horn ring cutout.

    The hub of the E30 steering wheel is very different from the 2002and E21 320i hubs and does not have a chance of fitting a 2002.

    —————————

    From: William Boyd
    Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 12:23:54 -0700
    Subject: 320i steering wheel in a 2002

    Troy D. Brewster” wrote:

    >…I have heard there is a problem getting the horn to work.
    >What is the work-around for this problem?

    I’ve fitted a 320i steering wheel in my ’75 2002a last year. ThoughI haven’t measured it, seems to be the same configuration as my ’74tii steering wheel but with a fixed as opposed to removable centerpad. The horn switch ring is reversed from the 2002 and so a contactto the ring on the 2002 steering column must be made.

    For lack of a spare 2002 wheel at the time, I kludged it Q&D with a1″ brass paper fastener (FWIW: Bildemup ™#4 =97 the old non-cliptype with a tack-like head with a flat cotter pin-like point). Thehead is 1/2 wedged under the back part of the 320i steering wheelscontact ring. [Loosen one of the phillips screws holding down thering a bit, wedge the fastener head under the ring and then tightendown so the sides of the pointed part of the fastener will splay outalong the arc of the ring in both directions].

    The paper fastener point was bent with a curve at it’s tips tocontact the 2002 steering column ring with a fairly flat surface.’02a’s horn works fine after a little adjustment in bending the tabsto match the column ring. A slightly scratchy noise when turning thewheel might be lessened or eliminated by curling up the long edgeson the sides of the fastener a bit and adding a dab of lubricant ofsome type.

    Bill Boyd ’02’s and 3.0CS etc.

    —————————

    From: William Boyd
    Date: Sat, 14 Sep 1996 01:32:59 -0700
    Subject: E21 Steering wheel to 2002

    In a previous post suggesting a horn ring kludge to make a 320isteering wheel work in a 2002, I forgot mention of a couple ofwashers used as part of the steering wheel adaptation:

    Because of the length of the integral plastic tab that cancels thesignals on the 320i wheel, a plastic bushing (approx 1/4″ thick),salvaged in this case from the base of a spare 2002 manual trans.shifter (the one under the shifter ball if I recall) was slippedover the wide part of the steering shaft. The edges of the turnsignal cancelling tab on the 320i steering wheel were bevelledslightly with a file.

    Additionally, two metal washers (approx. 3/16″ in thickness total)were fitted over the steering shaft splines; followed by the 320iwheel into the splines; the 2002s thin spring washer over thethreads, and a 22-mm self locking nut. Test for tightness etc. Finally, snap in the roundel.

    (The additional 3/16″ was required on my ’75 2002a at least so thatthe 320i wheel wouldn’t rub and make noise on the bottom front edgeof the plastic pad sitting at the top of the 2002 steering column.The upper pad covering the column had curled slightly at the bottomwhere it joined the lower part that holds the horn ring, making ascratching sound against the hub when turning the wheel.)

    Bill Boyd ’02s and a CS etc.

    —————————

    Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 21:13:11 -0700
    From: “Victor L. and Lisbeth Westh-Trucco”
    Subject: 320is Steering Wheel on <02>

    You will hear lots of approaches, but I found the best way to dothis is to take the spring loaded brush off the 2002 steering wheel,take the ring off the 320i wheel, and drill out one of the holesthat encircle the center of 320i wheel to fit the 2002 brush intolike the 2002 wheel setup. The existing guide holes in the 320iwheel will line up well with your contact ring. I attempted themethod of bending the contact ring to make contact with the 2002contact ring and that didn’t work out too well. Let me know if youhave any other questions.

    Victor

    —————————

    From: “[email protected]
    Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 09:13:31 -0600
    Subject: E21 steering wheel on 2002

    >mounting an e-30 steering wheel onto a 72 2002 …
    >about brush and ring situation….

    But, there is one more thing. Signal stalk (lever) is on the leftside on E21 and square tailed 2002s. It is, however, on the rightside on the round tailed 2002, presenting another necessarymodification since the E21 wheel has signal canceller built into itunlike the metal ring on 2002.

    Miro STROMAR, Calgary, Alberta CANADA
    BMW CCA 132434

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    13.5: Brakes============================

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    13.5.1: Deterioration and Maintenance

    —————————
    From: [email protected]
    Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 03:13:33 -0400
    Subject: 2002 Brake Problems

    >I have a ’76 2002 in need of brake repairs. Specifically, I’ve been
    >told that my brake pads and shims need to be replaced; front left
    >brake caliper is “seized up” and needs to be replaced; both rear
    >wheel brakes are also seized up; and rear brake shoes and wheel
    >cylinders need to be replaced.

    To keep the brake system in good order is is best to replace thebrake fluid every year. If the fluid is not changed, moisture canbuild up in it and cause some rust in the brake cylinders, which canlead to problems. Another suggestion is to replace the flexiblepart of the brake lines; they are likely to be original and get bothsoft and filled with crud after 20 years or so. If you’re intoperformance, go with stainless/kevlar lines; if not, stock is fine.

    It seems strange to me that three out of four wheel cylinders are”seized up” at the same time. What happens when you hit the brakes? In any event, unless the front caliper is really in bad shape,rebuilding that caliper is way cheaper than buying a new one, andwill work just as well. By the way, you can get a new front caliperthrough a mail-order outfit for much less than you were quoted (Forexample $169.95 from Bavarian Autosport, 1-800-535-2002. Rear wheelcylinders are $26.95). If you’re not a member, join the BMWCCA. Atthe very least this gets you 20-25% of dealer prices for parts.

    –Fred Beck
    ’73 2002tii (240k miles, finally rebuilding the engine!)
    Boston, MA

    —————————

    From: [email protected]
    Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 23:20:30 -0400
    Subject: Uneven Braking

    David Mckenzie writes about his 2002 brakes. It’s been myexperience that the uneven pull of the brakes is usually the rearbrake adjustment. In the wisdom of non-self adjusting rear drums,the slack that happens when the adjustment goes off is the firstthing that moves upon pushing on the brakes. A simple test is pumpthe brake lightly and then see if it pulls straight; if so, it’s therear adjustment. Air in the brake system should make for a spongypedal and will pump up. But if you’re concerned, go ahead and flushand bleed the system. A seized caliper piston may cause a pull, butit should pull without the brakes being applied, and one side shouldbe hotter than the other from the increased drag.

    Good luck and remember that brakes are one thing not to have be only
    working so-so.

    Greg Mierz
    [email protected]
    Roster Manager, BMWACA Puget Sound
    Editor, MTecnic Zundfolge
    1969 2002Ti (MPOWER) now with 390,000 miles

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    13.6: HVAC

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    13.6.1: Heater Box/Cable Repair

    —————————
    From: [email protected] (Curtis A. Ingraham)
    Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 17:33:39 -0700
    Subject: lt;02> Heater Control Cables

    >A couple of nights ago, the cable to the heater valve
    >snapped off inside the housing near the heater valve …
    >Replacing the 23 year old valve appears to be straight forward,
    >but the cable looks to be a bear. Do I have to pull the heater
    >box to do this? … the replacement cable is actually a two-
    >piece affair. One end goes to the heater box and the other
    >connections goes somewhere. (inside the box?)

    You are on the right path. You must disassemble the console andextract the heater box with the control cables and levers attached.To free the lever assembly, pull the small knobs straight off, pullthe bezel off in the same direction, then remove the two screwswhich were hidden by the bezel. Detach the two coolant hoses, theblower wiring harness, etc. Be prepared with many towels to catchthe coolant which drains out when you move the heater box. Finally,remove the two (four?) nuts which hold the heater box in the car,and take the heater box to your workbench. (I was able to move myA/C unit out of the way without opening the Freon plumbing.)

    Open the heater box by drilling out the near-infinite number ofrivets in the flange. (Note which side of the flange the rivetheads are on.) With the heater box now open you can see andunderstand the two control cables. Install the new cables andadjust them carefully so you get the full range of motion of thewater valve and air flap. This is an excellent time to check theoperation of the fan motor.

    Now go to the hardware store and buy a new set of aluminum poprivets and backing washers. I *think* the size is 5/32 inchdiameter and 1/4 inch length. Also get enough closed-cell foam tapeto seal the heater box in the body opening. The tape is thin andabout 3/8 inch wide.

    Check the control cable adjustment again. Then reassemble theheater box with the pop rivets and washers, being careful to installthem from the correct side. Clean off the old sealing tape andinstall the new. Put the heater box and control back in the car,and reconnect enough things that you can test the heater. Then puteverything else back together. If you have the newer, illuminatedbezels, check the bulbs before replacing the bezels.

    This glib description ignores many of the annoying details of thejob. It is manageable, but give yourself most of a day to do it.

    Gunnar Elmgren adds:

    It is also an excellent time to replace the 2-inch long hose betweenthe heater valve and the heater core, and to have your heater coreflushed, externally cleaned, and checked out for leaks/corrosion;talk to your nearest radiator shop.

    Gunnar Elmgren
    Stockholm, Sweden

    —————————

    Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 19:40:30 -0800
    From: “marilyn, dan, phillip patzer”
    Subject: heater cable

    Some 2002 owners have installed 81 type 320i external heater valvesusing manual choke cables mounted where you choose as an alternativeto the 40 hours you’ll spend in the dash removing everthing if yourcable is actually broken.

    Dan Patzer

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    13.6.2: Air Conditioning

    —————————

    From: Ware Adams
    Date: Sat, 2 Dec 1995 18:37:38 -0500
    Subject: A/C in 2002

    > Was A/C an option in any 2002 models?

    It was a dealer installed option. Generally the best dealerversions were Behr — these were both cooler and had a nicerconsole. Frigiking was worse in both respects. Many cars now havereplacement compressors, and rotary ones are to be sought out here. I think Clardy compressors are quite good.

    > I’m thinking of buying one sometime soon and would like a car withA/C.

    Realize that most a/c 2002s don’t cool that well, and it really taxes the car’s radiator in the summer. You will almost certainly want a triple core radiator and 78-degree thermostat.

    For all of this you may want to check out the ’02 web page:http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~efrank/2002.html

    Ware
    ’72 & ’74 2002tii’s

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    13.7: Electrical

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    13.7.1: Battery

    —————————

    From: [email protected]
    Date: Sat, 17 Aug 1996 16:30:13 -0400
    Subject: trunk mounted battery

    >how to mount a battery in the trunk?

    Try to find bulk OO/ or OOO welding cable for the positive cable;it’s much more bendable and of bigger size to compensate for thelonger run of wire. Run the positive cable inside the car withgrommets whenever the wire goes thru metal (a short here could frythe car). On my car I ran it along the driver side sill under thecarpet, over the pedal assembly, and out thru the firewall justabove the starter. Ground the battery in the trunk; I used theunused shoulder strap fitting on the underside of the package tray,but any real clean solid spot will work. BE SURE the ground strapsbetween motor and frame are in good shape under the hood. It wouldbe wise to check all the grounds under the hood now. A good marinecase will hold the battery, but have a good way to secure the casein the trunk (angle iron, straps, or whatever but make sure it willnot move around). It’s a good idea to have it so that you can slideit out a little for maintenance, so leave some extra length to thecables. A welding shop will also have the right fitting for thecable ends, then just use wing nut battery posts to hook up thecables.

    Greg Mierz, [email protected]
    Roster Manager, BMWACA Puget Sound
    Editor, MTecnic Zundfolge
    1969 2002Ti (MPOWER)

    —————————

    From: Ian Dickerson
    Date: Sat, 17 Aug 1996 17:54:15 -0400 (EDT)
    Subject: Trunk mounted battery

    I used a combination rear shock tower strut brace/battery pan fromImport Engineering to mount the battery in the trunk of my ’76 ’02. The brace looks like an inverted triangle, with the battery frame onthe bottom. This keeps the battery ahead of a line drawn between thetwo shock towers, and leaves most of your trunk left for storage. This is a neat solution to the battery dilemma. I use an InterstateGroup 42 battery, and haven’t put it in a box or anything. I used#2 gauge wire (got it at a welding shop), and ran the wire throughgrommets in the backseat bulkhead, and then inside the cabin, underthe driver’s seat and through a pre-existing hole in the firewall tothe starter.

    Ian
    ’76 M2002
    ’88 535is

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    13.7.2: Charging System

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Dan, Marilyn, Anathea, Phillip)
    Date: Sat, 18 Nov 1995 06:26:43 -0800
    Subject: alternator bushings

    In response to many requests for better mounting bushings for the2002 alternator housing, I suggest Bosch part # 1-120-323-001 @$8-10, which is/could be BMW # 12-31-1-268-447 @ $12-15. Thesebushings commonly outlast the life of the rest of the alternator.

    Now has anyone tried the “geared” type belt tensioning bracket usedon newer Bimmers for their 2002?

    Dan Patzer
    67 1800
    72 2002 Tii touring

    —————————

    From: Stuart Raike
    Date: Tue, 14 Nov 1995 07:47:26 -0600 (CST)
    Subject: 2002 alternator bushings

    >Recently a mechanic pointed out that the alternator on my ’74 2002
    >sits a little askew. He suspected that the rubber washers had not
    >been correctly installed. Can anyone out there explain where the
    >various washers go?

    There are two rubber bushings on the top alternator mount, and thereare two on the bottom mount. They are shaped like a top hat. Youneed to remove the alternator and then remove an external snap ringthat holds the bushings in place. With the snap ring removed, youcan drive out the metal sleeve that the mounting bolt goes throughand then remove the bushings. The bushings tend to get soft andsquish after some time, and then the alternator goes out ofalignment. I would recommend replacing the standard rubber bushingswith urethane bushings as they live much longer. Bavarian Autosportcarries the urethane. You need 2 of the large ones and 2 of thesmall ones. They cost about $7 each.

    Stu Raike
    ’92 325i
    ’82 320i

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Curtis A. Ingraham)
    Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 11:00:29 -0700
    Subject: Alternator Output

    >I recently purchased a newly remanufactured alternator for my 02.
    >I was surprised to find out that it is only a 35 ampere alternator.
    >Ithought that the stock U.S. version alternator was 55 amperes?

    Most ’02s have 45-ampere alternators. Some unspecified cars have an”earlier” 35-ampere alternator.

    —————————

    From: Hood-Douda
    Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 19:50:32 -0700 (PDT)
    Subject: Alternator upgrade options

    I had the original 35-A alternator in our ’69 1600ti rebuilt to putout 70 A. Don’t know the specifics, but it’s worked fine for 1.5years and was a reasonable alternative . Check with your localindependent BMW mechanic or electrical motor repair shop.

    Mike Hood-Douda
    [email protected]

    —————————

    From: John Temple
    Date: Tue, 13 Aug 96 17:02:00 PDT
    Subject: Alternator Upgrade

    In the last issue of _Headlights_, Anthony Velleco describedreplacing his alternator with a used alternator from a 530i (becauseit kept him in the Bosch line). The mounting points are the same,the wiring harness plugs right in, and it has a solid bushing whichwon’t wear out. It takes your stock 2002 (pre-’74) from 35 amps to55 amps, and it takes the later ’02s from 45 amps to 55 amps.

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Curtis A. Ingraham)
    Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 09:30:38 -0700
    Subject: Alternator Upgrade

    >I was wondering if anybody has done a conversion to their 02
    >wherein they put a bigger alternator (70 amperes or more).

    Top-End Performance in North Hollywood, California sells for US$ 179a 65-amp alternator upgrade for 2002s. Phone 818 764-6768 or seewww.racetep.com.

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    13.7.3: Headlights

    —————————

    From: Ware Adams
    Date: Tue, 13 Aug 96 15:18:50 -0500
    Subject: 1600 Headlights

    >Is there a way to upgrade the headlights to something newer and brighter ?

    Hella H4s work well. You should probably use a relay, though.

    Ware
    ’72 & ’74 2002tii

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    13.7.4: Turn Signals

    —————————

    From: Hood-Douda Mike Hood-Douda
    Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 19:50:30 -0700 (PDT)
    Subject: Dash turn signal light

    Leif Anders said:

    >I am perplexed by a problem with my turn signal enunciator on the
    >instrument cluster. I have replaced the bulb and renewed the
    >relay, and yet the turn signal reminder lamp in the cluster will
    >flash only once, twice, or maybe five times then quit. Meanwhile,
    >the turn signals continue to flash as they should.

    I too suffered (er, the 1600ti did) from this malady. The cure?Replacing the fuse for the turn signal. Seems that the exposedaluminum fuse material oxidizes slowly over time, which somehowupsets the cosmic balance of the RC circuit that the turn signalbulb, relay, and indicator lamp comprise. I replace my fuses abouttwice a year as preventative maintenance.

    [Leif’s solution below]

    —————————

    From: [email protected]
    Date: Wed Aug 14 08:58:00 1996
    Subject: Dash turn signal light

    [Response to Leif Anders T.S. problem described above]

    This is the standard response of a turn signal flasher (relay) whenone of the bulbs is out. My theory is that your outside turn signalbulbs are not drawing enough current. This could be because thewrong bulbs are installed (dim #93 vs. bright #1141 or #1156) orbecause there is a loose connection somewhere. It is possible, butnot likely, that the turn signal switch is bad; I’d leave thatexpensive cure for last.

    I suggest doing some troubleshooting with a DVM. See if you get astrong 12 volts at the input of the turn signal flasher. Check atthe turn signal bulbs also. Check that you have the correct bulbs. Measure the turn signal current (at the fuse maybe) and calculatethe difference between ON and OFF; it should be in the range of 3.0and 4.2 amps. If it’s less, my theory is confirmed. For #93 bulbsexpect about 2.0 amps.

    A simple and indirect test is to temporarily tie another bulb inparallel with an existing one (easy at the rear inside the trunk).If this makes the indicator flash regularly, it confirms the theory.

    —————————

    From: Leif Anders
    Subject: Dash Turn Signal Light Corrected
    Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 20:33:09 -0700

    I discovered the wrong bulb was in the rear left turn lamp, and theright front had a bulb on it’s last leg. (actually died during mytests). At last my signals work correctly.

    —————————

    From: [email protected]
    Date: Tue Aug 13 12:14:49 1996
    Subject: Turn Signal Problems

    >I need to do some work on my 1970 1600
    >Can I fit a turn indicator that will click off after turning a corner ?

    Maybe yours is broken or out of adjustment. The switch should havea finger that projects toward the steering shaft, and the fingershould move closer to the shaft when the switch is on (left orright). The shaft or steering wheel should have a cam which hitsthat finger when the switch is on and clears it when the switch isoff. An incorrect adjustment is easy to fix by loosening the twoscrews holding the turn signal switch and moving the switch closerto the shaft.

    >Can I turn off the annoying (and battery flattening) “safety feature”
    >that leaves the right side lights on when the ignition key is removed ?

    Yes. This problem is partly a consequence of the item above. Asdesigned, the side lights come on when the ignition switch is offand the turn signal switch is on (left or right). You could curethis temporarily by switching the turn signals off. You can defeatthis feature by removing a couple of wires from the ignition switch.Email me for details.

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    13.7.5: Fuses

    —————————

    From: Hood-Douda Mike Hood-Douda
    Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 19:50:30 -0700 (PDT)
    Subject: Oxidized Fuses

    Seems that the exposed aluminum fuse material has a natural tendencyto oxidize slowly over time. The current warms the metal, theunderhood environment is also warm, throw in the ambient humidity,and voila, you have an opportunity for oxidation to occur. Whichresults in increased resistance. I replace my fuses about twice ayear as preventative maintenance.

    —————————
    From: “Steve D’Gerolamo”

    Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 09:59:26 -0400
    Subject: Bullet Fuse Remedy

    The older BMW models use bullet fuses which often malfunction due topoor fit or oxidation. The fuse contacts should be cleaned on aregular basis. In fact, I used to change the fuses on an annualbasis on my 2002 (at $0.05 each, it was cheap peace of mind). Whenchanging these fuses, try to get the copper based fuses rather thanthe aluminum ones. Also, Wurth Contact OL works great in all typesof fuse boxes to remove oxidation. (I just read today about anAnniston, Alabama resident who put a 22 caliber bullet into the fusebox of a Chevy pickup (a perfect fit) and when the circuit wasenergized, the bullet discharged hitting him in the knee…don’t trythis on your BMW)

    Steve D’Gerolamo c/o The Ultimate Garage, Emerson, NJ (201-262-0412)

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    13.7.6: Instruments

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Curtis A. Ingraham)
    Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 09:30:38 -0700
    Subject: Erratic Temperature Gauge

    My ’72 2002tii temperature gauge had become gradually more erraticover the past few months. Before, the needle would be steady atmid-scale after the engine warmed up. Recently, it typically readnear or in the red range, and it fluctuated with certain electricalloads (turn signal, headlights, a/c, heater fan, etc), going everhigher with more things turned on. These are the classic symptomsof a bad ground connection and a fairly common problem in 2002s.

    The troubleshooting and repair were easier than I imagined. Using adigital multimeter, I measured the voltage drop between the batterynegative post and the engine, then the drop between the battery andthe chassis. Both should be a few tenths of a volt at most, andthis was the case with the engine. For the chassis the drop wasalmost one volt, and it increased to 1.6 volts with more loadsturned on. While probing along the chassis leg of the batteryground cable, I saw that it had broken free of the battery terminaldue to corrosion and wear. This was the problem. (The batteryground cable has a large wire for the engine and a smaller wire forthe chassis.) I temporarily reattached the loose end to the battery,and the gauge got much better. Then I installed a new cable, andnow my temperature gauge is rock solid.

    The battery ground cable for all 2002s is part number61-12-1-350-305, and the book price is US$ 16.50.

    [See Section 13.7.8]

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    13.7.7: Accessories

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Phil Marx)
    Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 21:52:24 -0400
    Subject: Console switch

    >Has anyone found a good switch which fits in the spare hole on the
    >center console face? I would like to mount an on/off switch for my
    >fuel pump there and haven’t been able to find anything at the auto
    >stores. Would a 320 fog light switch handle the current load?

    Try the 2002 fog light switch #60-31-1-353-589or rear fog light switch 61-31-1-356-901 (green) 61-31-1-356-873 (orange)
    or my favorite, the Bavaria City/Country horn switch which is a twoprong with black un-lit button used for some recall due to excessiveloudness. You’d have to check your 3.0 films on this one. I havethe switch on my old tii, used to use it to turn the radar detectormounted in the visor on and off (VA law you know). You had betteruse a relay.

    -Phil Marx

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    13.7.8: Starter

    —————————

    From: “TK Gustafson”
    Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 20:29:41 -0700
    Subject: <02> electrical problems

    After pulling out the Behr AC out of my car, I found that thestarter won’t engage. It’s working the solenoid, (after changingthe starter, no help) and has plenty of juice to it. I triedputting jumper cables directly onto the starter lug, and that workedONCE. Upon further inspection, I noticed with the ignition in startposition I have somewhere around 9.5 b+ to the block! I noticed thiswhen I burnt my arm on the throttle return spring. Huh? you ask?? What the #$%@ is going on here is what I thought. So now, theentire dash is ripped apart and I can’t find anything wrong there orunder the hood. It seems like it’s just getting enough power toactivate the solenoid, but the juice it needs to crank over is goingto the block.

    After writing all of this, I’m thinking that the block isn’tgrounded. It was grounded from the AC compresser. (Battery is in thetrunk and grounded to the frame.) As far as I can think, the onlyplace the engine / drivetrain doesn’t have rubber mounts somewhereis the throttle linkage by the gas pedal.

    [See Section 13.7.6]

    TK Gustafson
    [email protected]
    2 ’76 ’02’s

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    13.8: Misc

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    13.8.1: Shifter feel improvement

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Oleg Perelet)
    Date: Wed, 23 Nov 1994 13:54:14 -0600

    If shift lever feels loose: take LOWER part of shifterand try to lift it: ^^^^^if it can be lifted up >1″ or you can shake it left/right -plastic linkage bushings (x) and (F) on picture are worn.

    At least on 02 you don’t have to remove driveshaft to replacebushings. I’ve done it on my ’72 02.

     @ / / Shift Lever (D)/ \==================================== @ ==== Floor Pan == |(x) -Shifter Plate- – – -|–/ ———–]=[]@———————[email protected] Trans- ] ]](A) / — (E) (B) (C) mission ]]]]]]]]]]/]Driveshaft]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]] ] ]] / ———–] _/ (F)02 picture; note (E), (F), and (x)

    You need to have allen 8-mm socket, pretty long socket externder(several small extenders are even better – extension will bemore flexible, but still strong).

    Overall extender lenght should be a bit more than (A) – (C) distance.alse you will need 13-mm and 10-mm wrench and socket.

    1. Fix front wheels and right rear wheel, Lift rear left side of car – enough to lift wheel, put car in 3rd gear – you will need this to rotate driveshaft.2. put support 2-3″ bellow trasmission.

    3. remove left transmission support bolt.4. loosen two support bolts on right side. Remove 10-mm bolts connecting exhaust to tranny. Tranny will be lowered on support.5. remove shifter support flange (F)-(E) – on F side it got plastic bushing – BMW sells it as one pice ~US$30.

    -*- easy part done -*-

    6. (A) is two metal pieces with plastic bushings (x) in them (~US$10 from BMW). They are connected to transmission using two allen bolts. Shifter plate is connected to transmission thru (x) bushings using 13-mm bolts (#).

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    13.8.2: Clutch

    —————————

    Date: Sun, 14 Jul 1996 08:58:18 -0700
    Subject: 1600 mechanical clutch linkage

    >Anyhow, on the motor end of the pivot arm is a white tubular plastic
    >piece that apparently fits into something. All I’ve seen in the
    >books is a veiled reference to it fitting into something on the
    >motor? I know it’s aft of the motor mount on the left side

    There is a bracket, #21-11-0-470-050, which attaches to the block aswell as the bell housing. Without it, there is no place to attachthe mechanical linkage. I know that Carl Nelson at CNPR has some.Give him a call at 1-800-466-8184.

    Keith Wollenberg
    ’72 tii Touring, ’88 M5, ’95 M3

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    13.8.3: Drive Line

    —————————

    From: Oleg Perelet
    Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:31:16 -0500 (CDT)
    Subject: Smooth-shifting 2002

    >The problem happens most of the time when I’m shifting from second
    >to third. As I’m engaging the clutch in third, I can hear a clunk
    >noise from somewhere along the drive train. I can also feel a
    >slight jolt in the shift lever at the same time.

    Here is list of similar problems that I had on my 02’s:

    1. Worn center bearing on driveshaft – rubber holding bearingbreaks, driveshaft moves around. Look under car and find thisbearing in the middle of tunnel; on 74 it can be covered with plate,but you’ll be able to see it. About $40.

    2. IMPORTANT: Engine mounts worn or front subframe cracked, shakeengine with hand. Look in book to see where mounts are located. Onpre-73 the driver side mount was a weak design, but I had one newstyle go bad too (on 75). If mounts fail, engine will drop onsubframe (still drivable, but …). Engine mounts are ~$50 for bothsides. Subframe cracks under driver side mount: look under intakemanufold (use bright light), and you’ll see it. Replacement – $???from junk yard. To replace it you’ll have to hold engine with somekind of crane.

    3. Rear subframe mounts are bad: again look in book where they arelocated and look at rubber. Easy to replace, each is about $20.

    4. Worn ‘guibo’ (tranny/driveshaft coupler): look for cracks. About $40.

    Oleg
    E30M3&02’s

    —————————

    From: [email protected]
    Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 23:20:30 -0400
    Subject: Driveshafts and U-joints

    Don Miles wrote a very nice posting on replacing the U-joints onEARLY BMW’s; my 1969 2002 with longneck diff does have u-jointsretained by circlips. All later BMW’s have swaged u-joints thatcan’t be replaced by following Don’s procedure. Correct my if I’mwrong but that changed with the advent of the short neck diff inmid-1969 and holds for both 4 and 6 cylinder cars. The irony isthat for the shafts that have basically non-replaceable u-joints,you can get the u-joints from the dealer; but you can not get theu-joints that are replaceable. Go Figure! That’s the reason thatplaces have sprung up to do the machining to remove and replace theu-joints on all BMW’s built since the 1970’s.

    Greg Mierz
    [email protected]
    Roster Manager, BMWACA Puget Sound
    Editor, MTecnic Zundfolge
    1969 2002Ti (MPOWER) now with 390,000 miles

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    13.8.4: Locks and Keys

    —————————

    From: “John R. Grant”
    Date: Tue, 13 Feb 1996 22:03:53 -0600
    Subject: Replacement 2002 keys

    >I lost the only remaining set of keys to my 72 2002 … Am I better
    >off going to a BMW dealer or a local locksmith to have a key made?

    If you’re not in a hurry, go to the dealer. They have access to adatabase maintained by BMW NA which may have the key code for thevehicle. Given the key code, BMW NA can cut a steel (not brass) keywhich might even fit. Cost is very reasonable, about $7 for theblank, about $5 cutting charge, and its a much nicer key than thebrass generic blank you’ll get from a locksmith. Very fewlocksmiths will cut a factory steel key — they tell me that the keymachine “rocks” (grinding wheels) will be destroyed if they try tocut a steel blank (which you can buy at the dealer). Cuttingwheels for steel blanks are apparently rare and expensive.

    HOWEVER, I and reportedly others have had very mixed experiencewith the BMW NA keycode database. The key made for my car from thisdata was not even close to the one and only key which fit the locks. I finally faxed a photocopy of the key to them. Believe it or not,the key returned after they worked from the photocopy ALMOST fit –It was close enough (off by one cut depth in 3 out of 8 positions)so that I could rekey the locks to work with it (except for theignition lock, which is a whole ‘nuther thread). Now (andpresumably for ever more) the keycode on file will make a key thatworks. In all fairness, the dealer and BMW NA bent over backwards tohelp me out and the history of the car is somewhat “shady”, but ittook almost a year!

    >Can either the dealer or a locksmith make a key for my trunk lock?

    If you’re not locked out of the trunk, it should be easy to rekeythe trunk lock … My dealer was no help at all on this. Forrekeying issues, you need to find a locksmith who buys his partsfrom Automotive Security Products. They sell a “keying kit” withthe parts you need to make your lock fit any key you can get in thehole.

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    13.8.5: Wheels and Tires

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Curtis A. Ingraham)
    Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 09:11:22 -0700
    Subject: <02> Wheel Nut Torque

    >What is the correct torque for lug nuts on a 72 2002 with
    >320i wheels (I know, I know, but these are the wheels that
    >were on the rusty beast when I bought it)?

    Your choices are:

    lb-ft N-m Source ——- ——- ———————————————— 59-65 81-89 2002 Repair Manual (all wheels) 81 110 E30 Owner’s Manual (alloy wheels) 65-79 90-110 Tightening Torques (all vehicles/wheels ca. ’89)

    When converting from steel to alloy wheels, be sure to use a set ofalloy-wheel nuts; they have a wider seating cone than thesteel-wheel nuts.

    —————————

    From: [email protected]
    Date: Mon, 20 Mar 1995 22:38:28 -0600 (CST)
    Subject: OEM 3-series wheels on 2002

    >I’m looking for a set of 14-inch OEM alloy 3 series wheels to fit my
    >’74 2002. The car has stock bodywork. I have seen these wheels on
    >numerous 2002’s.
    >1. Which wheels fit best? eg. from what year car, width, etc. What
    >is the offset measurement of the recommended wheel?

    The usual retrofit are the alloy wheels off of any standard E30 car.(i.e. ’84-’91 318i, 325/e/es, 325i/is, but NOT from an M3 or 325ix)The usual wheel is the variety with a dish in the middle and 18spokes along the outer edge; the 325is and 318is came with the BBSmesh style wheels. Either of these styles will work on a 2002.

    The standard dished variety is a 6X14 wheel; the ‘is’ BBS wheel is a6.5X14. The offset on the 6X14 is 35 mm, I believe; not sure on the6.5 wheel.

    If you presently have steel wheels, you’ll also need to replace thelug nuts with ones designed for the alloy wheels.

    >2. What tire size is most appropriate for this application?

    The usual tire size used is 195/60-14. Fits the 6 or 6.5-inch widthwell, and the diameter is nearly the same as the stock 165/80-13.

    >3. Is there a 15-inch OEM wheel that works?

    Not that I’m aware of. Also, in order to maximize the effectivenessof 50 series tires on the 15-inch rims on a 2002, a bit ofsuspension setup/modification is necessary.

    Ben

    —————————

    From: [email protected]
    Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 22:33:31 -0500
    Subject: 2002/325 wheels

    >1. Which wheels fit best? eg. from what year car, width, etc.
    >What is the offset measurement of the reccomended wheel?

    You can use either the 14×6 or 6.5 off the earlier 3-series, the14x6.5 is off the 325is and is a BBS RZ wheel which is alsoavailable aftermarket, but is not the exact same wheel as the lip ispolished, not painted.

    >2. What tire size is most appropriate for this application?

    I would use either a 195/60-14 or 185/60-14. The 195’s are a moreaccurate match in overall diameter. I have seem 205/55-14 work onmost, but not all attempts, as clearance will vary slightly from onecar to the next.

    >3. Is there a 15″ OEM wheel that works?

    Not that I know of. I have run a 15×6.5 wheel on my car with a27-mm offset and 205/50-15’s with no problems, but BMW has neveroffered that size. I believe that a VW 15-inch wheel off a GTi orJetta GLi would work with a 1/4-inch spacer and longer studs, butmost VW wheels you can find are bent already and I wouldn’t suggestspacers anyway.

    OZ, alias Robert [alias Bill Ozinga] at the Tire Rack1.800.428.8355 ext 307

    —————————

    From: Fredrik Skog
    Date: Fri, 22 Sep 1995 11:06:53 +0200 (MDT)
    Subject: 14×6.5 BBS RAs; wheel offset; wheel studs

    >I bought a used set of 14×6.5 BBS RAs to put on my ’76 2002, and the
    >tire shop to which I took them to be shod is telling me that the
    >offset won’t work with my hubs as the lug studs are too short. Of
    >course, the fellow I bought them from assured me that the offset was
    >fine for an ’02.

    The correct offset for yor car is 29 mm. And I won’t recomend you toput on wheels that differ much from that. The earlier model cars,pre ’73 i think, has offset 35, the same as the E30 3-series.

    >anyone successfully ran RAs on a 2002? Can I replace the lug studs
    >with longer ones and expect that to work? Is there anything else I
    >should look at/try?

    I have a set of 6*15 BBS with offset 33 rimmed with 195/55 tires onmy ’70 2002ti, and it works fine (except from a little rubbing onthe inner fenderwall in FULL turn. The wheel was to thick for mylug studs, so I replaced them with longer ones (I think they’re fromthe rear wheels on a 3.0 Si, if I remember right). I had to try afew different studs before I found the right length. Try thesalvage yard if you can, it’s a lot cheaper.

    Fredrik Skog ’70 2002 ti O==00==O
    Email: [email protected]
    WWW: http://www.ts.umu.se/~skog/

    —————————

    From: [email protected] Brian Foster
    Date: Fri, 12 Jul 96 12:13:54 PST
    Subject: 2002 Tires & wheels

    >I’m currently running 5.5 x 13 steel 320i wheels and OLD Bridgstone
    >RE-71 tires (205/60-13) shoehorned on the rims … If you have done
    >this, what type of wheel was it, or do you remember the offset?

    The IT racing guys all run the 13×7 Revolutions (advertised inSportsCar), and they know the offset information you need. You willhave to get a big strong burly guy to help pull the fender just alittle bit to get the tire to fit underneath, but it should work. Note: one way or another without camber adjustment you will get alittle bit of rubbing (inside fender at full lock or on the fender;it’ll rub no matter what).

    —————————

    From: [email protected]
    Date: Sat, 3 Aug 1996 21:18:03 PST
    Subject: TIRE SIZE

    >Currently I am running 175/70-13’s. I am considering going with a
    >205/60-13 (Yoko AVS maybe?). Can I run a 205 safely on a 13 x 5
    >rim, or do I need a 13 x 5.5 or 13 x 6? My current rims are 13 x 5
    >minilites (yes the real ones).

    I currently run the 205/60R13 AVS’s. They are great tires. I run a13x5.5 BBS wheel. It works, but a 13×6 would be ideal. You willhave to roll the fenders; the 205 is a wide one.

    Kevin Connor

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Curtis A. Ingraham)
    Date: Sun, 1 Sep 1996 13:43:40 -0700
    Subject: E30 wheels / tire size for tii

    >I just got a set of E30 14-in wheels for my ’73 tii and was
    >wondering what size tire I should run? I have been running
    >205/60-13 on my factory wheels with just a little rub. I would like
    >to get some Bridgestone RE71s. I was thinking about 195/55-14, but
    >then a guy I work with said 195/55-14s would rub on the tie rods of
    >a tii. Is that true? What type and size tire works well on a tii
    >with E30 wheels?

    I have had 195/55-14 tires (SP 8000) on E30 alloy wheels on my ’72tii for several months. Although the tires are not in contact withthe tie rod ends at rest, there is a mark on the tires fromoccasional contact; the tie rod boots are not damaged. These tiresrub the front fender lips occasionally on hard cornering, especiallyon tight, reverse-camber turns. They also rub the inner fender wallslightly on hard lock turns. None of this rubbing is serious.

    Earlier I had 195/60-14 tires. Rubbing with these was similarexcept slightly worse on the inner fender wall due to the largeroutside diameter.

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Curtis A. Ingraham)
    Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 10:33:51 -0700
    Subject: Tire Size Chart

    Doug Falls pointed out a grievousand serious error in my earlier 2002 tire size chart:

    >the 165/R-13 is slightly taller than the 185/70-13 at 23.4
    >vs. 23.2 [inches] respectively.

    Since I used the wrong stock diameter and since the order of sizes and percent difference from stock in the table are based on the stock diameter, the stock size was out of order, and _all_ the ‘percent’ numbers were wrong.

    Doug continues:

    >From my calculations, the 185/65-14 is the best 14-inch choice,
    >as it is the nearest to stock at 23.47. Second best 14-inch is
    >the 195/60-14 at 23.2 … I am considering using E30 (14×6)
    >alloys with 185/65HR-14’s on my ’02 because I really want my
    >speedo to be accurate. I am staying away from 195’s or 205’s
    >because I have heard steering is hard at slow speeds.

    Bill Ozinga of the Tire Rack confirms that 23.4 inches is thecorrect diameter of the stock size:

    >Your mistake is the 0.70 should have been 0.80. When the
    >aspect ratio isn’t listed, it’s assumed to be between 78-82;
    >for mathematics sake, it’s usually estimated at 0.80.

    And suggests this size for 14-inch wheels: “Use the 195/60-14’s.”

    Well deserved plug for Bill and the Tire Rack:
    ———————————————
    Bill Ozinga – [email protected]
    Webmaster – The Tire Rack
    http://www.tirerack.com
    Ph. (888)362-8473 or (219)287-2345 ext. 367
    ———————————————

    The corrected and expanded chart is as follows: (2) Diff. (1) from 13-inch 14-inch 15-inch Diameter stock Wheel Wheel Wheel (inches) (%) Comments*——– ——— ——— —- —- ———————- 195/55-14 22.4 -4.1 (3,4,5)175/70-13 22.6 -3.5205/60-13 22.7 -3.0 (7,11) 185/60-14 22.7 -3.0 195/50-15 22.7 -3.0 205/55-14 22.9 -2.2 (7) 175/65-14 23.0 -1.9195/65-13 22.9 -1.8 185/55-15 23.0 -1.7 165/70-14 23.1 -1.3 205/50-15 23.1 -1.3 (7) 195/60-14 23.2 -0.9 Stock for some E30 (3,8,11)185/70-13 23.2 -0.9 Stock for 2002 turbo165R-13 23.4 0.0 Stock ’02 size (except 2002 turbo) (11) 195/55-15 23.4 0.0205/65-13 23.5 +0.4 (7) 185/65-14 23.5 +0.4 205/60-14 23.7 +1.2 (7) 185/60-15 23.7 +1.5 205/55-15 23.9 +2.0 (7)175/80-13 24.0 +2.5 Rubbing likely 195/65-14 24.0 +2.5 Stock for most E30 (3,4,5,6,8)

    Notes:

    (0) Some sizes may not be available. Check tire weight rating before use.
    (1) Diameter is approximate. It varies with tire manufacturer and model. It also decreases about 1.1 % from new tread (10/32 inch) to no tread (2/32 inch).
    (2) Assumes stock tire size of 165R13, aspect ratio of 0.80, and diameter of 23.4 inch. Differential ratio is effectively reduced by this amount, e.g. with 195/65-14 tires the stock 3.64:1 ratio becomes 3.55:1. Speedometer reading is reduced by this amount, e.g. with 195/65-14 tires the speedo reads 63.4 at 65 MPH. Speedo reading increases as tires wear (1). Speedo reading varies with normal manufacturing tolerances, typically – -2/+5 % IMO.(3) Slight, occasional rubbing on front inner fender walls at full lock is common with these sizes.
    (4) Slight, occasional rubbing on tie rod boots possible on tii.
    (5) Slight, occasional rubbing on front fender lips is common.
    (6) Slight, occasional rubbing on front apron is possible.
    (7) Rolling, trimming, or stretching of fender lips is required; rubbing is likely.
    (8) E30 (’84-’91 3-series) 14-inch alloy wheels fit ’02s well and are a common upgrade. If tires are included, try for 195/60 rather than 195/65. Replace steel wheel nuts with alloy wheel nuts.
    (9) E21 320i wheels fit ’02s poorly because of their different offset.
    (10) Width: At the stock diameter (23.4 inch), a wider tire will have less clearance; use a smaller diameter for more clearance.Steering effort and pavement groove wander increase with width.
    (11) Most popular sizes.

    Comments and corrections are appreciated.

    —————————

    From: “TENCCUA.BRUMWE01”
    Date: 25 Jul 1996 20:23:20 EDT
    Subject: 2002 Autocross Tire Pressures

    On my 2002 with ST springs / bars, Bilstein HD’s, urethane / Delrin/ metal bushings, stess bar, 205/55-13 RE71R (remember those?) tiresI’m running 30 psi front and 32 rear. This set up is wonderful forautocross. However, I can’t steer with my foot since the car has nopower. I have managed to hang with the E30 M3’s in our localevents.

    matt brumwell, smoky mountain chapter ‘cca, ’75 2002, ’87 535is, ’88 M3

    —————————

    From: Stuart Raike
    Date: Tue, 14 Nov 1995 07:56:00 -0600 (CST)
    Subject: Wurth Paint for wheels

    >Could someone tell me where to buy the Wurth silver spray paint for
    >wheels, and how much paint is needed to do one side of four rims?

    You can call Imparts at 1-800-325-9043 or Bavarian Autosport at1-800-535-2002. Both carry it. Two cans should be sufficient foronly one side of four wheels. I recommend getting a can of theWurth Clear Lacquer as a top coat. The clear makes them look muchbetter and clean up easier.

    Stu Raike
    ’92 325i
    ’82 320i

    —————————

    From: [email protected]
    Date: Sat, 7 Sep 1996 00:23:07 -0400
    Subject: BMW bolt circle info

    >Does anyone know the bolt circle diameter for BMW 5-bolt wheels?

    According to the 1995 Yokohama Fitment Guide, BMW used only two boltcircle diameters. They are 5×120 mm and 4×100 mm.

    Gene Westburg
    ’84 318i 206K “the mudshark”
    ’73 2002 118K “cosmic debris” project
    ’76 530i 60K the other project

    ============================

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    13.8.6: Gas, Brake, and Clutch Pedals

    —————————

    From: “TENCCUA.BRUMWE01”
    Date: 19 Jul 1996 18:05:18 EDT
    Subject: Sticking gas pedal

    There are several places in the linkage of the 2002 that could becausing a problem. I’m going to assume you are not runningsidedrafts in this case. My example is for a 32/36 DGAV Weber, butI think the Solex is close.

    The first thing to do is to remove the gas pedal by lightly pryingit off the two ball joints on the floor, then sliding it right.Check to make sure that the carpet (or floor mats) are not bindingin any way. Clean the ball joints and apply a little grease. Alsoclean the track that the pedal shaft goes through.

    Now the hard part. On my car that shaft was actually rusted(surprise, surprise) where it goes through the bushings in the pedalbox. I don’t remember the exact order of doing things, but I thinka couple c-clips can be removed, the linkage detached, and the wholepedal arm can be slid right out. I used a wire wheel to polish mineand regrease it with Mobil 1 synthetic grease. You can put thatback in and reattach the pedal.

    On the fire wall is a shaft that the lower linkage attaches to.Disconnect the lower linkage and the big return spring. Remove thisand clean both ends, including the female parts on the firewall andcarburetor. BTW, you can adjust overall pedal feel by using adifferent hole on this shaft with the big return spring.

    While this shaft is off, try working the linkage on the carburetor.If it’s still sticking, try cleaning the outside parts of thelinkage really well, including the carb return spring. If it’ssticking after this, it may be time to do a serious rebuild of thecarb. While you’re in there check the straightness of the shaft thatthe butterflies are attached to and look for obvious signs ofbinding, like fresh metal showing.

    When you’re done you will have to readjust the pedal height andlinkage movement so you do get full throttle travel.

    matt brumwell, smoky mountain chapter ‘cca, ’75 2002 autocrosser ’87 535is, ’88 M3 event / track car

    —————————

    From: Sam Chien-shin Lin
    Date: Fri, 19 Jul 96 15:38:06 -0700
    Subject: Gas Pedal Resistance

    There’s a white nylon roller on the pedal linkage coming up thru thefloor. [It fits into a metal slot on the underside of the pedal.] It often gets worn out. Sometimes you can get away with justrotating it a bit.

    Otherwise, try lubing the various joints in the throttle linkage andthe spring in the pedal box.

    -sam

    —————————

    From: “Steve D’Gerolamo”
    Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 08:27:05 -0400
    Subject: 2002 Gas Pedal Bushings

    I would advise anyone with a sticking gas pedal to replace thefollowing bushings: Slide Bushing @ Accelerator Pedal (35-41-4-440-122), Pedal Shaft Bushings @ Pedal Box (qty=2)(35-41-1-108-237) and while you’re at it, you might as well replacethe Torsion Spring for the Accelerator Rod @ the Pedal Bucket(35-41-1-108-676). Parts cost should be under $5.00 and labor about30 minutes. The underside of my 76 2002 took a bath of salt waterat the NJ shore and replacing the above items was the only way I wasable to get a smooth pedal back.

    Steve D’Gerolamo, c/o The Parts Co-op, 201-262-0412

    —————————

    From: William Boyd
    Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 01:00:17 -0700
    Subject: Gas pedal sticking — WOT!

    Just wanted to add a paragraph to the 2002 sticky gas pedaldiscussion recently in the digest. Here’s something I read in theBMWCCA Tech Tips (1979) that could be a safety issue upon reassmblyof the linkage (originally printed in the BMW Automobile Club ofAmerica’s Puget Sound Chapter newsletter “Aus Freude Am Fahren”):

    “Potential Throttle Linkage Hazards

    “Four-cylinder throttle return springs can be improperly installed,exposing the hook of the spring to the heater hose. If the hookcatches against the hose, it can hold the throttle open. The heaterhose bends beneath the throttle linkage, passing very closely to it.There is a potentially dangerous incorrect re-installation position,where the hook can hang up on the hose. The correct installationhas the hook facing away from the hose. Even with the spring oncorrectly, care must be taken to insure the heater hose is properlyinstalled, since inadequate clearance between the hose and the restof the linkage may also cause the throttle to stick open.”

    —————————

    From: Oleg Perelet
    Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 12:28:15 -0500 (CDT)
    Subject: pedal cluster

    >How do I completely remove the gas pedal linkage from the pedal
    >cluster.

    From inside:

  • Unbolt bunch of 13-mm bolts that hold cluster.

    From outside:

  • Disconnect lower throtle linkage lever from gas pedal (unscrew &slide it towards tunnel).
  • Disconnect brake linkage: unclip it, (under brake booster holder;don’t loose clips).
  • Unbolt big (17-mm?) nut & bolt that holds pedal assembly to boosterholder.
  • Disconnect cluch line.

    Shake and take whole thing out; then it out it will be obvious howto take it appart completely. (Then sandblast it, weld all smallholes, clean & paint pedals, put new bushings in and feel happy 🙂

    ============================

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    13.8.7: Differential

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Curtis A.Ingraham)
    Date: Sun, 26 Nov 1995 22:15:03 -0800
    Subject: 73 2002 Final Drive Ratio

    >Does anyone know the gear ratio of the final drive on the automatic
    >transmission equipped ’73 2002?

    Most likely: 3.64:1. Less likely: 3.90:1.

    >Are there any identifying marks on the final drive that would
    >indicate its gear ratio?

    Yes, although they can be hard to see, even with glasses, and evenafter scraping off the crud. Two numbers are stamped into the sideof the case near the front, probably on the port side, such as:

    40 11

    These are the numbers of teeth on the ring and pinion gears, andtheir ratio is the gear ratio of the unit. For this example, 40/11 =3.64, identifying this as a 3.64:1 unit. Some possible ’02 ratios are:

     37 11 – 3.36:1 38 11 – 3.45:1 39 11 – 3.54:1 41 10 – 4.10:1 37 9 – 4.11:1 38 9 – 4.22:1 35 8 – 4.38:1 40 9 – 4.44:1 38 8 – 4.75:1 35 7 – 5.00:1 37 7 – 5.29:1 41 7 – 5.86:1
    The additional marking “S 40” or “S 75” identifies a limited-slip
    differential with a 40% or 75% locking ratio.

    —————————

    From: [email protected]
    Date: Sat, 18 Mar 1995 18:00:34 -0500
    Subject: ’71 2002 Problems

    Gearing:
    The best thing to do for all street driven 2002’s is to put a 320ioverdrive five speed transmission in your car. Once again, _EuropeanCar_, March 1993.

    Differential:
    With an overdrive transmission, you should use a 3.90 diferential.These were available in the ’76 2002 for the 49 states market. Youcan also use a 320i differential. The best 320i differentials touse are the earlier ones with 8-mm bolt holes. Some of the 320idifferentials have a 25% limited slip assembly installed. These areidentified by a big S painted into the top of the case, or themarking S25 stamped into the side where the ratio code is. _EC_ hadan article about this last year, I can’t find the issue to tellwhich one it was.

    Sid (Kewl 71 2002)

    ============================

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    13.8.8: Exhaust

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Bavarian Motor Warehouse)
    Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 12:35:08 -0400
    Subject: ’76 Exhaust Manifold for Calif Emissions

    >Can somebody tell me whether CA emisions required a different
    >exhaust manifold for the ’76 2002 than other ’76 for other states.
    >I have an exhaust manifold from a ’76 that has a large threaded
    >opening at the front of the main runner and smaller threaded
    >openings at the top middle and rear of the main runner that are
    >plugged with hex plugs. Would appreciate any definitive id of the
    >correct ’76 exhaust manifold. The donor vehicle was a New England
    >’76 2002.

    California 2002s had thermal reactor exhausts for both ’75 (like therest of the US) and ’76. Also 320i for ’77-’79 as best I canremember. This little oven at the exhaust side of the head is astamped and welded arrangement, not the cast iron as on your ’76. CA ’76 is (short version) same as 49 state ’75.

    Phil Marx BMWCCA #6021 BMWMOA #2024
    Bavarian Motor Warehouse, Inc.
    (804) 293-8269 fax (804) 293-0817
    416 W. Main St.
    Charlottesville, VA. 22903
    Check out our Web page: See our 1600
    Cabriolet and other lovely BMWs.
    http://www.comet.chv.va.us/bav/

    —————————

    From: Greg Miller
    Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 15:13:30 -0400
    Subject: Ansa Sport/Performance Muffler for 1972 2002

    Just thought I’d post the kind of information I like to see on thedigest. While we were replacing my tired/sqrounching (technicalterm) tranny with a used rebuilt one, we decided to replace theincreasingly loud(er) Ansa Sport/Performance exhaust system withsame. We also noticed that the center resonator had been replacedby a straight pipe, so that is on the list also.

    Here is the a list of vendors that I have contacted so far and theirprices:

    Vendor Center Resonator Rear Muffler Total——————- —- —- —-Ireland Engineering $56 $115 $171Bimmer Parts $68 $100 $168Bavarian Autosport $70 $110 $180BMP design $56 $110 $166Best Source $89 $136 $225Bekkers Imports $49 $ 81 $130

    All of the above are Roundel advertisers — EMail me for phonenumbers if interested.

    These are in no particular order other than the order in which Icalled the vendors. It looks like it in this case it pays off tomake that one last call … I was leaning heavily toward IrelandEngineering because I have ordered from them before and receivedexcellent service and advice. If you call them ask for Jeremy. Ihave also received excellent service from Bavarian Autosport. Ileft out shipping due to it’s variable nature.

    Greg Miller
    72 2002
    96 318ti
    BMW CCA Tarheel Chapter
    Former Little League 3rd Baseman

    ============================

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    13.9: Performance

    ============================

    Back to top

    13.9.1: Performance Overview

    —————————

    From: Ware Adams
    Date: Sat, 2 Dec 1995 18:37:38 -0500
    Subject: Simple Performance Mods

    >Are there easy mods that are inexspensive as well that can be done
    >to 2002’s?

    Nothing is that tough — it’s a pretty simple car. A performancecarb and suspension set up usually works out quite well.

    Ware
    ’72 & ’74 2002tii’s

    ============================

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    13.9.2: 5-speed Transmission Conversion

    —————————

    From: [email protected]
    Date: Mon, 29 Jul 96 09:24:14 EDT
    Subject: 5-spd Conversion

    >I was wondering if the driveshaft from a 320i with a 5-speed would
    >work, I already have this from the donor.

    The simple answer to your question is no, the 320 drive shaft is notthe correct length for the 2002 5-spd conversion. However, your 320driveshaft is a good donor shaft for converting your 2002 shaft to a3-bolt front flange. Use the 320 front flange and “graft” it ontothe 2002 shaft as part of the shortenting process. Note that youhave to modify the shortening length Ben specifies in the FAQ, sincethe 320 guibo is thicker than the 2002 guibo. But this conversionof the front flange accomplishes two things: (1) allows use of theheavier duty 320 guibo, and (2) assuming your 320 5-spd trans. has a3-bolt flange, this also eliminates the need for purchasing the $2004-bolt output shaft flange.

    Can anybody suggest a source for the transmission support brackettabs that Ben specifies in the 5 spd conversion FAQ. These tabs aresupposed to either bolt or weld up to the trans tunnel to allowrelocation of the trans. support bracket. Both Maxmillian and thedealer show these parts to be NLA. Any advice on substitutes orworkarounds would be apreciated.

    Jonathan
    ’87 535is
    ’72 2002tii (undergoing restoration and 5-spd conversion.

    —————————

    From: [email protected]
    Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 17:49:46 -0400
    Subject: Driveshaft for 5-speed Conversion

    >An article in _European Car_ said the transmission came with a
    >5-speed driveshaft from a 320.

    The article stated, “I was fortunate enough to have a factoryfive-speed driveshaft supplied with the transmission.”

    The driveshaft to use is a modified 2002 one. The driveshaft in thearticle is for a long neck differential. This driveshaft has asliding section that enables it to be used with either an E21 fivespeed or a 2002 factory five speed. I probably wouldn’t use a longneck differential if I didn’t own several long neck differentialswith an assortment of ratios.

    It is my understanding that this article from 1993 is no longeravailable as a back issue. I might consider re-writing the articlefor a web page or something. Several of those old articles arecurrently being re-written and re-photographed for a tech bookletfor this year’s 2002Fest West.

    Bren

    —————————

    From: Sam Chien-shin Lin
    Date: Mon, 29 Jul 96 15:21:03 -0700
    Subject: 5-speed conversion brackets

    Many thanks to everyone who came up with transmission mounting tabsources for doing the 2002 4-spd ->5-spd conversion. Here’s thesummary:
    ———————————————————
    Erik said the part is 41 12 1 808 830 – “console”. ———————————————————
    Hendrick BMW said it’s NLA. HA! ———————————————————
    Maxmillian has the part for $5 each. 410-744-2697 ———————————————————

    CNPR has it for $5.75. I bought it from them, since they’re closest to me. With tax & shipping it came to $16.72 (kinda steep on handling charges). Actually, they’re kinda like Maximilian, specializing in NLA and restoration stuff for coupes, 2002’s, etc. CNPR, 710 Turquoise St, La Jolla, CA 92109, 800-466-8184
    ———————————————————-
    Metric Mechanic has a complete kit which contains the mounts, the modified shifter, flex-disc, and modified drive shaft. They don’t really like to break up the kit. Their mount is a u-shaped affair that just bolts onto the existing 4-speed mounting tabs. 816-231-0604
    ———————————————————-

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Curtis A. Ingraham)
    Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 12:57:31 -0700
    Subject: 5-sp conversion Brackets

    >Can anybody suggest a source for the transmission support bracket
    >tabs that Ben specifies in the 5 spd conversion FAQ. These tabs are
    >supposed to either bolt or weld up to the trans tunnel to allow
    >relocation of the trans. support bracket.

    You can get these from:

    Bavarian Professionals
    1218 7th Street
    Berkeley, CA 94710
    510 524-6000
    510 528-0620 fax
    M-F 8-5:30

    Aside: Michael Dennison, owner of Bavarian Professionals, has recently become a BMW CCA Technical Service Advisor. He is available to club members Monday through Thursday 10 am to 4 pm, PST.

    ============================

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    13.9.3: Autocross Setup

    —————————

    From: “Richard W. Hall” Rich Hall
    Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 23:35:35 -0400
    Subject: tii autocross setup help

    >I need advice from the handling experts on ’02 tii set-up for autocross.
    >I have:
    > Street tires (must go) 195/60-14 Michelins, 14×6.5 E30 BBS wheels
    > Stock sway bars
    > H&R springs (new)
    > Bilstein Sports (new)
    > 3.91 (not LSD)
    > 5 sp 320 trans

    I run a 2002tii with a similiar setup to above (Eibach ProkitSprings, Bilstein Sports, 205/60-13’s on 13X6 wheels, urethanebushes front/rear, 25-mm front, 22-mm rear bars). I’ve been runningYokohama A509’s on the track and street.

    At the last autocross I was running 3-4 seconds slower than E30, E36M3’s. The car tends toward push in tight corners. Adding thesprings and Bilsteins improved this situation and combined with thelarge sway bars corners pretty flat. Suprisingly, overall ride iscomfortable. There is another tii that’s been lowered and runs 14X6325 alloys with Yoko AVS’s that is generally 1/2 – 1 seconds back. At driver schools the car is pretty neutral with some push as speedscome up. Hoping that this may be cured with a race compound tire.

    Changing sway bars to a larger bar front and rear may help to reduceany body roll and keep the tires planted in the turns. I believethe stock bars are pretty small and lose something over the years.

    —————————

    From: “Matt R. Brumwell”
    Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 11:17:29 -0500
    Subject: 2002tii Autocross set up

    Way back in digest #204 Vince Brown asked about autocross set up forhis tii.

    I have a ’75 2002 which I’ve been preparing for autocross the lastfew years and got to use a few times this year before spinning a rodbearing.

    I’m using Suspension Techniques springs and sway bars (22-mm nonadj/19-mm adj.) The front springs have one coil cut from them tolower the ride height, and I’m thinking of going a little further.My front end used to sit up because of the adjustable camber platesI have. Unfortunately my car led a rather bad life before makingits way to me, and the camber plates really only managed to get thefront end back to the stock setting of -0.2 deg camber. However,since I chopped a coil out of the springs, the camber is morenegative, but I haven’t had it on the rack yet. I also did oneother thing to help correct the accident damage (purists cover youreyes right now and page down). I put a come-along across thefenders near the shock towers and cranked until I thought thefenders would tear. I hold it in postion with an adjustable strutbrace. Every so often I take a few more cranks with the come-alongand retighten the brace. Kinda like an orthodondist with braces. Mysway bar bushings are urethane front and rear. The rest of thebushings in the front I made from Delrin on a lathe. I think Kormansells these if you don’t have access to a lathe and have deeppockets. In the rear the subframe mounts have the rubber removedand steel welded in place. The rest of the rear suspension isurethane, including the differential mounts. The rear bar is set onmax oversteer right now.

    Other important facts. The rear end is a 3.90 LSD. This helps alot, but highway cruising rpm’s have climbed a little. Right nowI’m using 13 x 5.5 wheels from a 320i. They do not rub on my car,but often do on others. They make the stance a little wider and Ican squeeze 205 series tires on them. Ideally I could find some 13x 7 wheels with the correct offset and go with 225 tires. I alsohave a smaller steering wheel. The A/C was removed, and the batterywas put in the trunk to distribute the weight better.

    2002 owners who have driven it really like the handling. Turn-in isimmediate, and body roll is a lot less than normal. The car stillundersteers a little, but I’m hoping my soon-to-arrive engine willallow me to use the throttle to oversteer. I’m really happy withthe final product, but it is not a car for long trips. It tends toride like a box car over rough surfaces like RR tracks. I’m to thepoint where the car will only be used for autocrosses and maybecommutes to work on certain days.

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    13.9.4: Fuel Injection

    —————————

    From: Ian Dickerson
    Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 08:04:19 -0400 (EDT)
    Subject: 318i Fuel Injection Retrofit

    You can retrofit the fuel injection and electronic ignition from an’84 318i to a 2002 engine. It requires a reground cam, since the FIdoes not need a big cam like carburetors do to get enough fuel. PeteMcHenry at Precision Performance (910 761-0643) is the expert onthis swap, and is very helpful over the phone. I bought theinjection/ignition setup for $500 from Pete, but my engine diedbefore I could install it, so I can’t comment on performance, butPete said that on similarly equipped ’02’s, the car with injectionwas as fast as one with Weber 40 DCOE carbs and a big cam.

    Ian
    ’76 M2002
    ’88 535is

    —————————

    From: Oleg Perelet
    Date: Sun, 4 Aug 1996 22:36:56 -0500 (CDT)
    Subject: M3 head alternative

    Well, M3 head will fit with few mods. You’ll have to provide extraoil passage in block, drill hole in front to adapt chain tensioner,reuse M3 front cover/chain components, at LEAST use older flat toppistons (you’ll get around 11.3:1 compression). Maybe Turbo pistonswill be better. Original M3 pistons are dished. And you’ll have toadapt/reprogramm motronic to meet smaller engine. (BTC unit shouldbe best approximation for flat top pistons, …., BTC restrict to2L, but redline is about 87000 there :).

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    13.9.5: Engine Transplants

    —————————

    From: [email protected]
    Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 09:24:21 -0400
    Subject: M42 (318is) engine in 2002

    >Has anyone ever put an M42 (16V 1.8L 318is) engine in a 2002? As I
    >consider powerplant selection for my ’02, this one comes to mind.
    >I’d really like an E30-M3 engine, but they are priced to high. How
    >much does an M42 typically bring? Am I better off just building an
    >’02 engine with a cam & dual Webers, or maybe injection?

    Simplicity and reliability are what make the 2002 great. Stick tothis credo, and you will be fine.

    The best price/performance/economy option for a 2002 is a rebuiltengine with a hotter cam and a Weber 40DFAV; this may not be as sexyas an M3 engine, fuel injection, or even dual 40DCOEs; but it workswell and is extremely reliable. You won’t sacrifice fuel economy ordriveability.

    Once you diverge from this engine, there are decreasing returns toscale. Each extra hp will cost more than the last. You will spendmore time fiddling with your car than driving it.

    There is a point where it makes more sense to buy a tii for $3-5K –a car that already has: tii struts (an upgrade you will want to doto improve the brakes), no rust (it never sleeps), and 140 hp offpump gas.

    Of course, you can spend $2-3K on a higher performance engine, andthen fix the rust (cost=???). Then, there is the 5 speed (>$1200)and better seats (>$500). You will spend money that you will neversee again. This will be for a car that is inherently noisy, hasterrible ventilation, and that doesn’t accept fuel fromvapor-recovery nozzles.

    Dan Taylor
    ’73 2002 turkis (278K and counting)

    —————————

    From: Oleg Perelet
    Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 16:52:02 -0500 (CDT)
    Subject: M42 (318is) engine in 2002

    I think this is very interesting project. I haven’t walked by one(they still rare), but as far as I know Pete McHenry in CA [NC?] gotone with less than 6K miles that he pulled off 318tii after he putM3 motor in it.

    Anyway, the engine is powerful enough. It will take you a lot of$$$ and time to up 02 engine up to 150 HP (well yes I saw all thoseads about 180+ HP, but it will be cammy, will run on aeroplane fuel,and you’ll have to change head gaskets every oil change). On otherside with few tweaks, 150 HP from 318 engine is easy.

    That engine is modern Motronic engine — so it’s even simplercompared to 02 setup — no carbs, no dist etc. It should fit 02 withright tranny (ask Pete), something needs to be done with driveshaft,etc, but I think it will make very good setup.

    Oleg.
    E30M3&02’s

    —————————

    From: Scott Theurer
    Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 22:51:07 -0400 (EDT)
    Subject: 318is engine in 2002

    A friend and co-worker drives a 74 2002 with a 318is drivetrain. Ihave driven the car, and it is a blast to drive. Very smooth, veryquick and still feels like a 02. Now the bad news: It was anabsolute bitch to install. The 318is is derived from the smallblock six, ie 325, not the earlier four cylinder engines. Thus theM3 swap is considerably easier. This car now sports custom rack andpinion steering, as well as custom modified control arms, as thestock steering interfered with the engine placment. From what I’veseen and heard, go the M3 way (which even Pete Mchenry says is scaryas hell to drive, something about 130 mph in an 02) or the old cam,pistons and webers. Have fun.

    Scott Theurer
    Bavarian Autosport

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Ian Dickerson)
    Date: Mon, 3 Apr 1995 18:34:03 -0400 (EDT)
    Subject: The M2002 Lives!

    Several people have asked me to “tell all” when I finishedtransplanting an E30 M3 motor into my ’76 2002. Well, I’ve done it,took it to the track and didn’t kill it, so I must be done, right? Not likely, but enough to offer some advice to those that want totry it, and a few vicarious thrills for those that are tired of allthose big horsepower cars pushing the “cute little 2002’s” around atthe track!

    I bought the M3 motor with 20,000 miles from Pete McHenry, atPrecision Performance in Winston-Salem, North Carolina (910761-0643). While not inexpensive, the M3 is a viable option whenyou compare the 210 hp of a stock M3 engine (with an Autothoritychip) to a comparable ’02 motor: To get a 200 hp 2002 motor is a”Stage III” application, according to Korman, and at $9,000 this ittwice what a used M3 engine costs. Of course, if you’re going tobuy a used performance engine, buy from someone you trust or you canget burned (the failure of just such an engine provided the impetusto do this swap). Pete McHenry is friendly, extremely knowledgeableabout BMW engine swaps, particularly into the ’02, and has areputation for honesty. So when the carborated engine in our ’02went south, I called Pete.

    The M3 motor itself fits tightly into the ’02 engine bay. You needa 320i radiator with an electric fan mounted in front of theradiator to fit the motor in the bay. You also need a 320i 5-speed, to which Pete welds the motronic sensors for the ignition andtachometer. The battery went in the trunk to make way for a K&Nairfilter (the stock M3 filter won’t fit), and I cut a hole in thefront valence for the airfilter to stick through. I bought Pete’sinstallation kit, which included the airfilter, motor mounts,transmission sensors, cooling hoses, and instructions for wiringharness connections. While I did all the work myself in a friends’driveway, I needed to call Pete on numerous occasions to troubleshoot problems. At all times Pete was helpful and encouraging (andhad the answers); all vital when it’s 10 PM and you’ve got gremlinsrunning through your head (and motor).

    Additionally, I installed a high pressure fuel system for the fuelinjection. An ’84 318i prepump in the tank feeds a tii pump mountedunder the right half-shaft. The main pump then connects to a 325ifuel filter mounted under the left half-shaft, and then to the steelfuel line under the driver’s side of the car (previously a returnline) to the M3 engine. The old carborated feed line is now used asa return to the tank.

    Finally, a chassis punch placed a strategic hole in the firewall,and the computer was mounted in the glove box. While I was at it, Iupgraded the brakes-if you’re going to go fast, you’d better be ableto slow down! I already had tii struts with 320i vented rotors and5-series calipers in the front, and scored a pair of drums from atotaled 320i (get everything, backing plates and all). Pete has runthis combination for a couple of years, and hasn’t yet had toconvert to rear discs, so I went this route for financial reasons. Although I’ve only done one Driver’s School with the car in thisconfiguration, I had no braking problems and tend to think Pete maybe correct here.

    There were the usual teething pains, like shorts that were hard totrack down (did you know that a bare wire in your fog light couldknock out your instrument lights? And the common but unknown (to me)problem of a burned out alternator light in the dash blockingactivation of a correctly wired alternator?). Additionally, theground wires from the #3 and #4 fuel injectors to the computer hadstretched, so while they had continuity with an ohm meter, somestrands had broken, so they apparently couldn’t carry the currentrequired to open the fuel injectors; this took a LONG time to find,and only became apparent when I ran jumpers from the injectors tothe computer. Finally, after splicing in new ground wires, itfired! The install isn’t tremendously complicated, there are just alot of little things to do, and since I had never done anything likethis before, it sometimes took 2 or 3 tries (okay, maybe 5 or 6) toget things right, but anyone can do this if they have patience (howdoes 2 months of off and on evening and weekend work grab you?), anda mechanically-aware friend to keep you out of trouble. Finally,take the car to a really good BMW mechanic/car nut, to check forexpensive mismatches before you hit the road (and your wallet). Foranyone in South Florida, I went to Larry Jordano at European Auto inWest Palm Beach (407 588-1050)- it helps if the mechanic is a fan ofthe ’02 when tracking down gremlins.

    Okay enough techno-babble you say, I don’t want to do the install,but tell me about the revenge of my brethren 2002 at the Driver’sSchool! How does this sucker drive? Awesome! I don’t have a lotof ’02 experience, since my previous engine died 2 weeks after Ibought the car (last April), but I’ll give it a fling anyway. Theprevious engine was 160 hp, bored out, had a 304 cam, and dual Weber40DCOE’s. As expected, it had a distinct lope to its idle, and madepower primarily over 5000 rpm. It was a fun engine, but had serioustroubles passing emissions (it couldn’t). The new engine has areasonably smooth idle compared to the 304 cam-ed engine, but it isa motorsport engine, and you won’t confuse it with Mom’s toyotacorolla. The most noticeable difference is the wider power band ofthe fuel injected engine. In the light 2002, power comes on atabout 2500 rpm and keeps increasing, and really gets going over 3500rpm you have to be careful or you’ll burn rubber the first time youtake off from a stop sign!

    Driving was a blast, since nothing obvious was altered to the ’02body (just an air dam, stiffened suspension, and Yokohama 008Rtires). Several people were surprised that they couldn’t pass me,and a friend’s instructor even exclaimed (while following in a veryfast 530i), “Damn that’s a good running 2002! Why can’t you passhim?” The answer was “M POWER!” Also, I finally got revenge on theE30 M3’s. Usually, I can out corner a lot of M3’s at the track in my’02, but they could out-pull me on the straights. In an ironicreversal, I found myself getting caught in the turns, and outdragging an M3 on the straights after I finished off my old set of008R’s in my second session on the track. I put my street wheelswith Yokohama A509’s on the car for the last two sessions andcouldn’t go as deep or as fast in the corners as usual, but theysure didn’t effect my straightaway speed! in fact, I could seecorner workers watch us as a 2002 (me) came out of a 180 degree turnfollowed closely by an M3. The usual scenario is to give the ’02the passing flag; I could see the worker hold the flag in two hands,getting ready to unfurl it, and just about then notice that the M3was falling behind, and they’d stop in mid-furl, so to speak. Oneof my most treasured memories was (finally) watching an M3 recede inmy review mirror, instead of getting larger at warp speed, as theyusually do. Of course, for the E36 M3’s all bets are off: a quickpoint out the window, and watch their tail lights disappear aroundthe corner! The only bug at the track was high oil temps, sosometimes I’d put it in 5th gear and let the engine run easy downthe straights; I think I’m going to have to install an oil cooler.

    Well, this was rather long, but I was so psyched after all the work,I had to tell someone, and this seemed to be the appropriatelycrazed group for this forum. If anyone is contemplating this swap,do it! You have a car that will pass emissions (even in Californiaif you install the catalytic converter), be a blast at track events,yet be extremely streetable. Plus, it doesn’t look as fast as it is,and is less likely to get stolen. And there’s an incredible feelingof satisfaction of doing it yourself.

    A special thanks to all of you on the net who have answered mysometimes obvious, sometimes obscure, but always desperate questionsover the past months. The job would have been much tougher withoutyour collective wisdom and support!

    Happy motoring, and keep those 2002’s on the road!

    Ian ’76 M2002 ’88 535is

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    13.9.6: tii Upgrades

    —————————

    From: [email protected] (Bavarian Motor Warehouse)
    Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 14:50:05 -0400
    Subject: tii upgrade

    >I think I remember seeing references to a turbocharged 2002 or 2002 tii.
    >Does anyone know if A) There is/was such a thing as a turbo 2002 tii,
    >B) What it would take to make a regular 2002 tii
    >into a turbo edition?
    >I have a 72 tii, which is a lot of fun, but I’m sure it would be even
    >better if it could be turbocharged! Then maybe I could catch that 400
    >HP Porsche that passed me like it was shot from a gun! ;-))

    [2002 turbo description moved to Section 13.1.9]

    If you really want power in a tii and original-ness is notimportant, try bore and stroking to 2.3 liters, 45DCOE Webers, 316cam, headers, oil cooler, alloy rods and forged pistons, titaniumvalve retainers. Mine was dyno’d at over 200 hp. The turbo makesabout 160-170 depending on who you talk to. My 2.3 still pulls from2000 RPM and makes over 100 hp already by 3500 RPM. The turbo won’tcome close to this performance. With 5-speed OD and quick ratiosteering box, the mutant is a much finer car to drive. The turbo issimply unique, stock, cool, historical, and fun over 4000 RPM. Butwith Webers … no lag.

    Phil Marx BMWCCA #6021

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    13.9.7: Turbocharger

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    From: [email protected] (Chris Anderson)
    Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 22:59:50 -0500
    Subject: Aftermarket 2002 turbo

    >What it would take to make a regular 2002 tii into a turbo edition?

    I have a 2002 turbo. It is has a Weber carb instead of theKugelfischer mechanical injection system the tii and the factoryturbo used. So, yes, most turbos could be called 2002tii turbos. Iregularly pass Porsches as though I were shot from a gun, althoughtop speed is a little compromised; in order to sustain 120MPH or higher, I have to keep positive boost on the turbo, which isnot good to do for an extended period of time. Conversion is VERYtricky. I have one of the three exhaust manifolds still inexistence in the US that I know about which make for an easyconversion. The turbo came from a Cessna airplane and is a littletoo large for a 2-litre, 4-cylinder. I did not do the conversion,and would not have any idea how to, but there are a few peoplearound who might be able to help you; try Jaymic in GB:

    Jaymic Ltd. Norwich Rd, Cromer, Norfolk, NR27 0HFTel:01263 511710

    I have not talked to them, but was told they carry turbo parts. That’s about all I know, but if you have any more specificquestions, email me with them.

    Chris Anderson
    Austin, TX
    ’74 2002 turbo

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    13.9.8: Brake Upgrades

    —————————

    From: Andrej Gaspari
    Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 17:47:49 -0700
    Subject: 2002 brake upgrades

    >I have a 71 02 and am looking to upgrade my front brakes. I am
    >aware of the tii upgrades, but I have also heard that Volvo makes a
    >caliper, vented rotor combination that fits the original 2002. Has
    >anyone heard this myth or have any suggestions for brake
    >>combinations: tii struts w/ 5-series calipers, 320is…?

    I’ve got a ’74 2002 w/ the tii strut/E12 5er rotor setup. Worksgreat, although bleeding the calipers is really annoying (3 screws per side). A vast improvement over the stock brakes. If you’re looking for a kit-type coversion, Top End Performance (818-764-6788) offers a bolt-on (tii struts NOT required) 10-inch vented rotor conversion for $525 ($585 w/ braided lines). This may be your best bet.

    -AEG

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    13.9.9: Suspension Upgrades—————————

    From: [email protected] (Stanley Phan)
    Date: Tue, 4 Apr 1995 23:54:13 -0700 (PDT)
    Subject: Front Stress Bar

    Well I finally broke down and bought a stress bar for my 02. I picked a really beautiful polished stainless steel bar from Carl Nelson. This model is designed to run along the firewall to accomodate the stock air cleaner housing. It’s very reasonably priced too.

    This bar really makes a difference! I’m still quite amazed at how much harder and faster I can push my car on those turns! Turns I normally would take felt so much better. Front tire plow has virtually been eliminated (a very noticeable problem before) along with the tire chirping!

    I have to admit I was a bit skeptical about how much of a “difference” I would feel. Many people told me it would, but I just wasn’t convinced. Sure, I thought it would be a little better, but I had no idea it would be like a night and day contrast. Obviously that has all changed! I’m a believer! If anyone has a sport suspension, I would definitely add a stress bar! I think it’s just important as many of the other performance components such as sway bars and springs. I also noticed that entering driveways at angles feels much firmer. You definitely get a stiffer front end — all the better.

    Another thing: I found it very hard to make the rear end give. It’s quite amazing how something so simple helps traction at all 4s.

    Wow…and I’ve only driven about 10 miles so far.

    -Stanley Phan
    ’72 2002